You can link two or more of these together, but it is a pain. Just run the output from one to one of the inputs on the others, and the run that one to the TV. That will let you hook up 7 things (4 on the first, 3 on the second as you using one input on it for the other switchers out put).

Sort of. If it's a mechanical switch, and it's just passing through the signal, then you probably won't have any signal loss. You can tell if it's a mechanical switch if the switch is not powered & does not have a remote control. Then again... there are people who say mechanical RCA switchers DO introduce signal loss. But there are other people who say they don't. Lots of controversy on this topic. Unfortunately I haven't read a scientific, proven analysis which either proves or disproves this method.

Quote:

What makes a 'component cable' different from a regular RCA Audio/Audio/Video cable [red/white/yellow]?

A component cable is rated for higher bandwidth. Regular (yellow) composite video cables are rated at 10Mhz. The red and white audio cables are rated even less than that.

Quote:

And on that note, my TV has a 'HD Component Input' and a 'Regular Component Input'. If I plugged something into that 'Regular' input, that wasn't 'high definition', would it look noticeably better than using S-video [which I am now] [ie, the regular digital cable box, for instance].

Define "noticeably better". Yes, it will look better. The differences will be in color accuracy: depth, saturation, etc. Component video cables carry the color signals on 3 separate cables for color accuracy, whereas S-video carries all the colors on one cable. So if you're good at picking out colors, you'll notice a difference.

Quote:

What if I ran something that's non-HD through my HD component input? Would it upconvert, or be all messed up [that's a technical term, that is.]?

AFAIK, there aren't any TVs on the market that upconvert a non-HD signal (480i,480p) into an HD signal (720p,1080i). There are scalars and STBs that can do this though - e.g. the Samsung T-165. I have this STB, and I use it to upconvert my DVD movies from 480p to 1080i. But it doesn't really improve the image much at all. Which makes sense, since you can't "add" resolution & detail if it's not there to begin with.

Thanks for the info--the only other switcher I've got is a little 10.00 thing from MadCatz that I use to switch between dvd/PS1/DC on the 'old' tv. It's a cheap little plastic thing, and just uses regular composite cables, so it probably wouldn't be as good as the Pelican.

Well, yeah--"noticeably better" is kind of hard to quantify. One of the first DVD's I watched on the new setup was The Tick, and The Tick was nothing but BLUE. He really jumped off the screen; while S-Video wasn't 'bad', the component video was noticeably brighter/more discrete. The reds in the background, like in the restaurant, were also more defined.

Actually I tried this last night with a videogame. Sound went through, but no picture. But you're right, you can't put something there that's not there to begin with, and sometimes the TV-based tweaks harm the image more than helping it.

I plan on picking one of these up ASAP - it's exactly what I've been looking for.

I've got a Sony 36" XBR400 set that has 2 HD inputs - one is currently for my HD cable box, the other is my DVD player and XBox/PS2 and switching cables was a huge pain in the ass. Once I get the GameCube this holiday season, this piece of hardware will be needed evermore so!

The quality would be horrible if you do this because three on the second would be going through two of those things before getting to the TV. (well, not HORRIBLE, but not optimal. And are you sure you can get one with 4 COMPONENT inputs for $20?)

Not sure about component. I just use plain RCA switcher for component.

I doubt you'd see much degradation, but then again I'm not a videophile, and I'm glad I don't know what to look for.

I prefer being ignorant to being one of those people that can't enjoy a movie or game because of some grain, edge enhancement, bleeding etc. etc.

Hello! I was wondering if you read my e-mail at all before replying to it.
Could you re-read my e-mail again please?

Thank you!
Debbie

----- Original Message -----
From: "Pelican Accessories" <[email protected]>
To: <XXXXXXXXXX>
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 11:45 AM
Subject: PelicanAcc.com Technical Support - Response


>
> Thank you for contacting Pelican Accessories.
> Below is information pertaining to tracking number: 371290
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Product name:
> Platform: Xbox
>
> Problem reported:
> Hello! Your form didn't give any Product Name choices under Platform:
Multiple so I had to pick something at random. I have the Universal
Selector and had a question. Could you tell me the MHZ frequency that this
unit has for HDTV? Thank you!
>
> Debbie
>
> Resolution suggested:
> The dance pad is Infrared only
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Regards,
>
> PelicanAcc.com
>

That is too funny!

edit: You probably want to word your question to tech support a little differently. Maybe something like this: "I'm interested in the new Pelican System Selector Pro. Model #: PL-957. I would like to use it to switch between various component video sources, including Enhanced Definition 480p and High-Definition 720p/1080i. So my question is this: I'd like to know what the maximum component video bandwidth that the Pelican switcher is capable of handling. Having this information will help confirm my decision to buy your product. Thank you." Feel free to use it verbatim.

Maybe we should all hit them up with that same question that Joshic just posted, and see how many different answers we get.
Although I'm already ahead of GatorDeb, at least they read the question on my email ; )

just checking a 10/17 update of the Hookup at Penny Arcade:

http://www.penny-arcade.com/hookup_12.php3

At any rate, with my limited resources and setup, can anyone recommend a full component switcher/splitter for just 2 devices (dvd player and xbox)?

thanks.

I think we can now safely conclude that the Pelican switcher is not designed for 720p and 1080i. It probably will handle 480p ok, but I don't know for sure. You get what you pay for.

If I had to buy a component video switcher, I would get this:
http://www.inday.com/rgb4x/rgb4x.htm
$149. Remote control. Switches b/t 4 inputs. >230Mhz at +/- 3dB. The only drawback is that it doesn't switch audio, but then again, that's the A/V Receiver's job. Even cheapo receivers (< $200) switch b/t 4-5 digital inputs.

If you need audio switching as well, I would get the Audio Authority 1154.

Well, I've been using one of those cheapo $20 system selectors to switch my component connections, using the yellow/red/white inputs and at least for me there is no noticeable picture degradation even on 1080i sources. The helpful thing on this one is that it also supports switching of audio on top of it. That was the problem using the cheapo ones since you are using the audio connections for video, and they don't handle optical at all. You can buy optical switchers separately though, which is what I use. But its a minor pain to have to switch inputs on both devices. Putting it all together + ethernet switch is nice.

It would be nice to have a remote controlled switch, but in reality if you are using mostly for dvd/video game switching, you need to walk over to the units to switch dvds/games/turn them on anways, so its not that big of a hassle.

well i picked up the pelican pro last night hooked it up then realized i still have there 4 way selector hooked up with my other systems on the kids set up, there only using ps2 currently, so i hooked up my jvc jx-s111 selector with the following,

video1, component hookup - comcast hd box
video2, component hookup - dvd player
video3, pelican 4 way selector connected using video,audio left and audio right with component cable,
that takes care of my 3 component hookups on the jvc, so then on the pelican 4 way selector,

video1, ps2 with component hookup
video2, gamecube with component hookup
video3 will be my xbox when i get it

i really can't seem to tell of any signal loss, saved about a $100 thats gonna go towards my xbox purchase and i'll wait untill a switcher comes out with auto detect switching, and yes i too am that lazy.

Ooo-kay....like I said, to my untrained eye, I didn't notice a difference when going through the selector or directly into the tv, but this company is not instilling me with confidence:

[thanks to Joshic for the phraseology of the question]

Hello,

My question is regarding the PL-957 Universal System Selector Pro.

I would like to use it to switch between various component video sources,
including Enhanced Definition 480p and High-Definition 720p/1080i. So my
question is this: I'd like to know the maximum component video bandwidth
that the Pelican switcher is capable of handling. Having this information
will help confirm my decision to buy your product. Thank you.





Resolution suggested:

At present we do not have the information to give at this time. Our Pro
system selector has the capability to pass through progressive scan signal
to your high definition TV without any loss in signal
----

so...progressive scan is, afaik, 'dvd' quality, which is 480p, not the 720p or 1080i that 'HD' television signals are broadcast at. It could be that their 'tech support' people are not up to speed yet on the technical data of this, admittedly non-mainstream product. Or it could be that it's just not up to par with the ~150$+ units.
This may be one of those cases where 'TMI' scares me from the product, whereas if I were to have just bought the thing and used it, I wouldn't notice a difference.
But actually--on my tv, the HD input says '1080i' or '480p' on the screen depending on what is plugged into it. I tried plugging in a non-hd source to see what would happen [my Dreamcast], and there was no picture at all. If I plug in my DVD player in prog mode, or my HD box in HD mode, into a non-HD input, I'll get no picture either. So if I'm getting anything through the selector onto my HD input of the tv, it's either 'as-is' [ie, full resolution] or downconverted. Aren't downconverters expensive as well? And what impact does it have if the bandwidth passed through isn't enough? I had a conclusion with these rambling questions, but I forgot what it was, but it was something to the effect of If I see anything on my HD input through the box, it either says on the TV 480p or 1080i depending on the source, so won't my tv tell me what the selector is passing through to it? And I would think it's probably 'easier' and 'cheaper' to make a unit that passes through the signal, than one that downconverts. Argh, I wish Best Buy or someone else local had those fancier models--I don't mind ordering online, but for some products I like to check it out from a local store where I can return it if need be and save on shipping.

Actually that unit from Smarthome does have auto-sensing, the 4-input, ~180$ unit.

update: When I switched from the DVD input to the HD cable box input on the Selector, my TV did change its status display from '480p' to '1080i'. So apparently it 'thinks' it's getting 1080i. And again, Discovery HD does look *incredible*.

dtcarson, your TV "thinks" it's getting 1080i because it IS getting 1080i. From what I 've read in your previous post, I think you're still confused about how analog signals work. Analog signals are not "all or nothing". And component video signals are analog signals.

Say you have a really crappy switcher that introduces a lot of signal loss. When the component video analog signal gets passed thru to your TV, enough of it will get through to your TV for the TV to recognize it as 1080i. But that doesn't mean you are getting accurate picture detail. Think of it this way: you have a regular analog TV. You have a rabbit ear antenna on top of your TV to receive the local TV station's broadcast. If you watch the news, and the reception is bad, you will see bad picture quality. But your eyes will still be able to recognize the news anchor's faces and you'll know who it is. It'll just look bad. It's similar to a component video switcher. It'll still pass enough of the signal so the TV will recognize it, but you won't get as good of a picture.

BTW, what is the make & model # of your TV? It sounds like your TV has funky component inputs that are very selective about what signals they'll receive.

Jim Christian in the HDTV Hardware Forum at avsforum.com tested the Pelican System Selector Pro & gave it an evaluation:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...09#post2913109

The gist of it:

I have been using mine for a couple of weeks now. I just noticed some visable picture problems on input #4 which I was using for my DVD Player. I moved it down to #7 which wasn't being used and that seemed to clear up the problem. My eyes are not as good as the pros but, I cannot tell a visable difference between a direct HDTV connection to my tv and going through this box.

I have a Philips 60PW6393 or something like that.
Its only 2 HD inputs are 1 DVI and 1 component.

Thanks for the link to avsforums thread; I don't go over there much, thevolume is just overwhelming.
Loss I guess I can understand--when, say, copying a CD to a cassette tape, you might have 15% loss, whereas CD to CD should be 0%. Is this the same kind of loss, it's just not passing all the info across?
What is crosstalk, however? I guess the Aggressor's signal overpowers the Victim's?

Edstein: what sort of picture problems? Was it only on the DVD, or did you try another source through that input 4?

I did not try other sources through the same input. I wall seeing vertical banding. It was very noticeable. It is possible that I was getting crosstalk from the adjacent sources. I have not fully tested all possible combinations. What I have seems to be working fine for now so I'm not going to mess with unless something else comes up. Over all I am very happy with the unit.

This is my basic understanding, so correct me if I'm wrong...

Crosstalk occurs in a system when an electrical signal, travelling on one circuit or channel, creates undesired noise or interference in another signal.

I'm more used to hearing about this in the audio component world (or with telephones and the radio), but here is how I understand the use of the word in the context of the evaluation. The Y (luminance) signal is inducing changes in the the original state of the Pb (luminance minus blue) signal. I'm guessing that one way that they've cut costs is by designing in such a way that the signals aren't well shielded from each other. The end result being that you could have a somewhat distorted image with funky discoloration.

Thinking beyond just the component signals though, in any kind of box like the Pelican Selector that has a number of signals being passed through it, you could end up with crosstalk from any of the signals running through it. So you could end up with audio or ethernet causing problems with your video signal or video signals distorting audio etc.

Hmm, did that make sense?

Ah, and please bear in mind that I haven't seen or used one of these things, so I'm not trying to pass judgement on it. The potential user should decide if any differences introduced by the product are noticeable/acceptable.

well i went into target looking for some bargin bin games and no luck but i did picked up a progressive ps2 bundle with atv2 and network adapter on sat, i do get some picture blackouts while on progressive mode while watching a dvd movie, does this mean the pro signal is'nt passing through or a component cable problem.

Damn. I was hoping to get this for Christmas. Any other reasonably priced products that do the same thing like the link above?