One other eason why I didnt go moviemate (aside from the wall mount screen which would have done me zero good) was all the reviews complain about the lack of a lens shift and basically needing to put it so low and even on the floor in some instances. The Epson has lens shift sideways AND up and down. Also the Toshiba had negative reviews for dvds but good for tv viewing...not that many toshiba reviews in. plus I owned T productrs in the past and aint impressed. Optoma and Epson had pros and cons, but for me at least the Epson won

I still don't understand how the original poster is going to have their screen come down OVER the 42 inch plasma? Will it be 6 inches off the wall? I didn't know that was an easy option if so.

Of course, it would have to be far enough off the wall to go over the plasma. If I have a tensioned screen, is that going to be a real problem?

No problem. This is a very common setup. Probably wouldn't be much problem even without the tensioned screen.

Thanks Spiky. I'm probably going to go with the Da-Lite Deluxe Model B, since it's tab tensioned at a reasonable price. I plan to get the high contract model since there's going to be some uncontrollable ambient light in the room.

The Da-Lite Deluxe Model B is not tab tensioned.

PP checks the "tab-tensioned" box, and here's the description:

Suitable for offices, training and meeting rooms. Built-in tensioning arm locks in place when screen is extended to provide a flat, tensioned viewing surface. Screen surface may be angled with included pull cord to eliminate keystoning when screen is mounted with extension wall brackets or suspended from the ceiling. Matte White, High Contrast Matte White, Glass Beaded, Video Spectra 1.5 and Silver Matte fabrics will be seamless in all sizes. High Power fabric up to and including 6' high will be seamless.

---

X, am I reading something wrong?

A tensioning arm is nowhere near the same thing as tab tensioning.

Look at these two pictures. Same screens with one major difference. Do you see the difference along the sides of the screens?



The difference is that the screen on the right has tabs that tension the screen along the entire length of the screen. The Da-Lite Model B has only a bar running along the back-center that opens when the screen is fully opened. It makes the center of the screen fairly rigid. It does virtually nothing in terms of eliminating waves anywhere except along the vertical center. I know -- that's the screen I have.

Do a bit of research, visit the major screen manufacturers' sites and look at the differences in the tab tensioned screens and the non-tab tensioned screens.

Look at the difference between Draper's tab-tensioned and non-tensioned.

http://www.draperinc.com/Screen_Page...on_screens.htm

If you don't want to spring for the price of the tab tensioned models at least get a screen with a larger roller such as the Da-Lite Model C.

Thanks X. I'm not even sure I like the look of the tab tensioned screen. I think that shape would disorient me.

Okay guys, it's down to two choices:

HD70 with 92" Optima Pannview Screen - total $1000 from Costco

H1000u with 92" Da-Lite Model C - $1200 from Projector People.

I'm leaning towards the Mits because of the reviews and the better screen. Any thoughts?

Since the screen is intended to be used in the dark the shape of the sides really shouldn't matter. But since they cost so much and unless you know that the waves bother you, you could certainly try a non-tensioned screen first if you don't absolutely want the best right now.

I just look at it as a couple hundred bucks I spent on learning and I did get some use out of it too. I'm also considering cutting out the material and making a fixed screen out of it because I really do like the high contrast white material.

Mits because of the reviews and the better screen

Just for reference, mine is fixed and has one moderate wave since I am an imperfect carpenter. When watching TV, I can't see it. It is obvious in a bright room with no picture on the screen. Use this info as you will.

Spoke with the guys at Projector People and got a very good quote for the following:

HD1000u
Draper Model C 106" Screen

Plan on buying the projector mount from MountDirect and the HDMI cable from monoprice.

The guy at PP said that my idea of having the screen come down over the Plasma would not be an issue.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

You could build a mount as well. Cheap, easy...took me about 30 minutes to build the one for my HD70. How far down will your PJ hang from the ceiling?

I'm not sure, was going to post for help. It's an 8 ft. ceiling, throw distance about 15 ft. Do I need to get an extension for the mount?

Well per the projectorcom.com calculator for the Mit, @ 15' you can have an image 104" to 125" diagonal. If the 15' is from the wall and you have to move your screen a a foot or so in, you should still be ok. Now if you have to go longer then 15' you might have to be more careful.

If you have an 8' ceiling, you should not need any type of extension. In fact, based on the lens offset of 33%, you will want the pj as close to the ceiling as possible. Be careful about to close, as you still want good ventilation. Most commercial mounts will give you more then enough space for good ventilation.

I assume you are having just one row of seats? I'm not at all familiar with pull down screens, but I assume there is some sort of adjustment on how low the screen will go? The image on the Mit will be pretty low with an 8' ceiling.

I built my mount out of plumbers pipe pieces, a piece of Plexiglas's and some machine screw/bolts. Pretty easy and ran about $15.00. You basically take the piece of plexiglass and mark where the mounting holes for your pj are and drill the holes to match. Use the appropriate size machine screws for the size of your pj's mounting holes. Add bolts so that you can fine tune as needed. Then in the center of the plexiglass mount a plumbers floor flange (using larger screws and bolts). Mount a second floor flange to the ceiling. If possible into a ceiling joist (using wood screws), but these digital pj are pretty light, so I felt comfortable with a couple of 50lb drywall anchors. Next get whatever length of pipe nipple you need. Most likely in your case (like mine) get the shortest one possible. Attach the nipple to the floor flange that is attached to the plexiglass that is on your pj. Then screw the entire thing into the floor flange attached to the ceiling. Incredibly strong mount. The drywall or ceiling joist will give out before those plumbers pipes. And on an 8' ceiling you will not see any of the parts.

I stole the above from AVS when I had my X1. It worked so well, I just built a new one for my HD70. Three years ago, pj mounts started at over $100, so it was well worth making one. Now you can get a decent mount for $40 to $50, but still I didn't see the need to buy one when building was so easy. I probably got some pic's somewhere if your really interested.

Here is the set up when I had my X1, much the same with my HD70



Here is the "finished" product (again this is my old x1).

[IMG][/IMG]

Looking for some recommendations on screens. I will have the ability to have a fixed screen (somewhere around 100-120") and will have total light control as this will be in the basement. I recently bought the Sharp XV-Z12000 Mark II which has a 100" Screen Throw Distance 13' 2" - 17' 11" and this will be on a shelf 18'-19' feet back. My biggest concern is the height of my ceilings as they are only 7' and I have a vent that hangs down about 8-10".

I always recommending building your own....but they have come down in price as well.

Carada offers good value. Get a screen material sample from them before you order.

Could someone list links to the best sites for projection screens? I know some have already been posted, but if there are any others I'd be interested in taking a look.

And one quick question (though it may be a stupid one); is a fixed screen exactly as it sounds? I mean, is it completely fixed to the wall? I ask because the wall I intend to put the screen on is where the circuit breaker box is located. So I kind of need to be able to get to it. Is a pull down or electric screen my only option?

Yes, a fixed screen is just that, fixed on the wall it is mounted on.

As long as the breaker box does not mess with the tensioning of the screen material you'll be fine. I can easily remove my 88" Carada Criterion fixed by myself...

Ended up going with a Da-Lite High Power screen because given my long, narrow room I should be able to take advantage of the retro-reflective nature of the material and get a pretty high gain. Bought a 72" by 96" (110" 16:9 diag)model B manual pulldown for around $205 shipped from Provantage.com that I plan on using as a pulldown until I'm fully done with my HT at which point I am going to cut it and make my own velvet frame.

Anyone familiar with the Elite screens? I've found better prices, but I'd want to make sure it's actually a bargain and not just a cheaper screen.

Off topic but similar no less, how is the picture quality of the 1000U in a non-light controlled room? I live in a moderately sized house but don't have a room to dedicate 24x7 to be a theatre, but am interested in having one for nights and the like there of, is the thing completely useless when sunlight is an issue?