![]() |
Recommend me a new HDTV!
Here's the poop:
I bought an RCA 38" HDTV from BB four years ago, and it's been a nice TV. Not long after I got it, I noticed a few of the pixels (I guess that's what you would call them) burned out in the bottom left side of the screen. Not really noticible, it just looks like a small bug is on the screen. But I called the guy out to look at it, under my service plan. He said they couldn't fix something like that, and said they'd just replace the tube. Well, long story short, they kept making appointments and rescheduling them until I finally said fuck it, I'll just live with it. Well, my plan is about to expire, and I figured I'd see if I can still get the tube replaced. The pixels haven't gotten any worse, but the picture doesn't seem as sharp as it was when I first got it. The guy came out today, and said that the cost of getting the tube wouldn't be worth their trouble, so they would just swap me for a new TV, which means the $2000 I paid for mine goes as credit toward something hopefully better, given that that much money can go farther four years later. SO...what do I get? According to BB's site, they have several decent looking things in that price range: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....&type=category Here's one thing: I'd like to stay away from rear-projection, but that JVC 52" rear-projection looks really nice. There's also an HP 42" plasma. I don't know anyone with plasma, so I don't know much about them. What can my fellow Talkers recommend for me? T.I.A. :) |
what do you use the tv for.... games, movies.. what?
|
Do you care if it's 1080p or not?
|
Originally Posted by raven56706
what do you use the tv for.... games, movies.. what?
Originally Posted by Suprmallet
Do you care if it's 1080p or not?
|
A simple way to look at it is this: The higher the number the better, and "p" is better than "i".
For a more detailed summary: Televisions produce lines on the screen to create an image. The number of lines determines the resolutions. So the more lines, the more resolution. Now, TV's traditionally would project the odd lines first, then the even lines before refreshing the image. This is called interlacing. This sometimes produces a ghosting image with fast action, especially if it's black and white. Progressive scanning is when the television produces lines in numerical order and refreshes more quickly. This gives you a more solid picture. For a long time, HDTVs would go up to 1080i (1080 lines with interlacted projection). Recently, TVs have gone up to 1080p. However, AFAIK, only the newest 2007 crop of TV's can actually accept a 1080p signal from an external source. Previous 1080p TV's would take a 1080p image, downconvert it to 1080i, and back up to 1080p. If the TV did this correctly, there shouldn't be a loss in resolution. But why make it take the extra step? The other problem is that 1080p TV's generally cost more than TV's that go to only 1080i. Luckily, the way prices are dropping on HD devices, this isn't such a big deal anymore. You can now get a 52" 1080p Mitubishi DLP for $2,500. But, on average, if you feel like skipping 1080p, it should save you some cash. |
I'm in the market for a new TV too, so I'm going to recommend what I've been looking at, and see if anyone agrees/disagrees with my recommendation.
OP mentioned he'd like to stay away from RP, why? My choice is a DLP RP... Samsung 61" 1080p DLP HDTV Model: HL-S6187W $3,300.00 1. I want support for 1080p in, this has it. 2. This doesn't have cable card slot like the 88 models, but I don't really care about that. 3. Looks nice in the stores, improperly calibrated I'm sure. Probably would look a lot better at home. Thoughts? Here's a link to bb: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1138085317167 |
Cable card is on its way out anyway. No need to make sure you have it on your TV.
|
Originally Posted by basaro
I'm in the market for a new TV too, so I'm going to recommend what I've been looking at, and see if anyone agrees/disagrees with my recommendation.
OP mentioned he'd like to stay away from RP, why? My choice is a DLP RP... Samsung 61" 1080p DLP HDTV Model: HL-S6187W $3,300.00 |
^I misunderstood your pricing options. I thought you had $2,000 credit to put towards a better tv, I didn't know you meant you'll only spend 2,000.
OK, so in the same boat, what about the Sammy 720p models? Like the Model HL-S5686W. Those you can get for right around $2,000 now, maybe a little more. Best Buy has them too. I was going to get one of these when they were around $3,000 last year, but decided against it to wait for 1080p. A friend of mine has one of these 720p sets, and it's really nice from what I've seen, but I've only watched a few things on it. |
If you can darken the room, look at front-projection...movies look like movies, sports are terrific.
|
Originally Posted by basaro
I'm in the market for a new TV too, so I'm going to recommend what I've been looking at, and see if anyone agrees/disagrees with my recommendation.
OP mentioned he'd like to stay away from RP, why? My choice is a DLP RP... Samsung 61" 1080p DLP HDTV Model: HL-S6187W $3,300.00 1. I want support for 1080p in, this has it. 2. This doesn't have cable card slot like the 88 models, but I don't really care about that. 3. Looks nice in the stores, improperly calibrated I'm sure. Probably would look a lot better at home. Thoughts? Here's a link to bb: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1138085317167 |
You might want to stay away from Hitachi RPTVs. I bought one just over two years ago, and the light engine had to be replaced a few months ago. Replacing the light engine was no small task, and would have been very costly if I hadn't purchased the service plan. I'm not sure if BB even carries Hitachi, and maybe the problem has been fixed, but I thought a heads up couldn't hurt.
|
Originally Posted by basaro
I'm in the market for a new TV too, so I'm going to recommend what I've been looking at, and see if anyone agrees/disagrees with my recommendation.
OP mentioned he'd like to stay away from RP, why? My choice is a DLP RP... Samsung 61" 1080p DLP HDTV Model: HL-S6187W $3,300.00 1. I want support for 1080p in, this has it. 2. This doesn't have cable card slot like the 88 models, but I don't really care about that. 3. Looks nice in the stores, improperly calibrated I'm sure. Probably would look a lot better at home. Thoughts? Here's a link to bb: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1138085317167 If you are in this price range, the 62" Mitsubishi DLP RP can be found for about $2,899 and does have the Cable Card input as well as 1080p. If you are interested in that. Does not have a VGA out though if that is important to you. http://mitsubishitv.com/j/i/18326/Te...s.html?cid=131 |
Originally Posted by Vandelay_Inds
Are HD-DVDs 1080p or 1080i? Am I even asking the question correctly? Does 1080p mean there are no interlaced lines, but a solid picture? What happens when you feed one of these TVs an old signal, like a VHS, NES, DVDs, TV-DVDs, etc.? Are there cases where things don't show up as expected? What happens when you watch 4:3 features? Does the image get squashed?
Thanks, and sorry for all the question. :) And yes, 1080p means the lines are projected progressively, not interlaced. That doesn't mean it projects the entire image in one complete block. It still produces lines, it just does it in order instead of odds then evens. And I don't know about all 1080p TVs, but I have a 1080i that will project 480i as 480i, 480p as 480p, and 1080i as 1080i (it doesn't do 720p). It's up to the source to present an image in one of those resolutions for the TV to show it in that resolution. So you would still need an upconverting DVD player to get your DVDs at 1080i. Now, I do know most 1080p TVs will take a 1080i image and de-interlace it to make it 1080p. I don't know if it could do that for anything lower than 1080i. As for watching 4x3 content, widescreen TVs generally offer several different viewing modes, so you can have the content stretch to fill the whole screen or you can watch it windowboxed. |
Originally Posted by Vandelay_Inds
Are HD-DVDs 1080p or 1080i?
The HD-A1 outputs 1080i60 to the display at this point. I'm sure future players will output in 1080p at some frame rate. |
Well, so far this thread hasn't accomplished what I intended, so let's go back and try again.
I currently have an RCA 38" 1080i widescreen HDTV, the largest tube HD they made. Here's a little more about it. Based on what I have, and checking out the TV's in the BB link in the first post, can someone recommend one of those sets in that price range that would be a good replacement? Or, should I just keep what I have? Also, please keep in mind that I don't have extra cash, just what I paid for my set, so it has to be in that price range. No more. |
My recommendation. Wait another 6 months. You will be able to afford a better TV if you cannot go above $2,000.
|
Originally Posted by gimmepilotwings
My recommendation. Wait another 6 months. You will be able to afford a better TV if you cannot go above $2,000.
|
Originally Posted by gimmepilotwings
My recommendation. Wait another 6 months. You will be able to afford a better TV if you cannot go above $2,000.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1134703131623 |
Don't...have...extra...money. Can't...wait...six...months. Can't...make...clearer.
|
:lol: ok. HP plasmas are also really good. I think they use some panasonic parts. plasma used to have issues, but things like burn-in are no longer a problem.
|
Have you considered either spending extra money or waiting six months? Seems like a reasonble solution.
OK, seriously... I know that you are shying away from rear projection, but I've been pretty impressed with what I've seen of the Toshiba 56HM195: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...947945?ie=UTF8 56", 1080p, and under $2000. Seems like a pretty damn good trade from what you have now. Here's a thread of interest: http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsth...e/0#Post781539 |
Originally Posted by The_Infidel
Well, so far this thread hasn't accomplished what I intended, so let's go back and try again.
I currently have an RCA 38" 1080i widescreen HDTV, the largest tube HD they made. Here's a little more about it. Based on what I have, and checking out the TV's in the BB link in the first post, can someone recommend one of those sets in that price range that would be a good replacement? Or, should I just keep what I have? Also, please keep in mind that I don't have extra cash, just what I paid for my set, so it has to be in that price range. No more. |
Originally Posted by Suprmallet
CRT's will still give you the best blacks and overall picture of any of the current technologies.
|
Heck, the only reason I'm considering a DLP for my next TV is a space issue. The CRT will be for the living room, the DLP for my bedroom.
|
Originally Posted by Suprmallet
Does it have to be from Best Buy? Because if you go to some speciality A/V stores, you might be able to get a large size (55" and bigger) RP CRT for under $2,000. But Best Buy isn't generally going to stock that stuff. Why exactly are you trying to stay away from RP? CRT's will still give you the best blacks and overall picture of any of the current technologies.
|
Ok...here's a new update, and might just be what I'm looking for.
On the back of the sports page of USA Today...today...Wal-Mart has an ad for this set. They have it advertised on sale for $1486. I called BB and, if I understood him correctly, he said they have this set, for about $1600. Why it's not listed on BB's site, I don't know. So, if I go to BB tomorrow and they have this, and it looks good, this might be my new TV. I don't know much about DLP. Is it good? |
That's pretty thin. I think mine comes out about 22 inches. When you live in an apt, every inch counts.
|
Well, my current set comes out about 29" from the wall, so I guess thinner would be better. :)
|
Not sure about that RCA, I wanted to look at the specs, but the link on that page prompts for a login. Stupid jerks. :down:
AFAIK, DLP is the next best thing to CRT in terms of black-level and overall picture clarity without the risk of burn in and no screen door effect. There are pros and cons of all the new technologies, and I've been researching for a while, and have decided myself on a DLP. I don't even care about space issues, so if they made a 60" CRT, I'd probably be all over it. AFAIK, they don't so I have decided on DLP. Someone please correct me about any false info I've given, I'm no expert, but I try to do my homework. Infidel, sounds like you're getting closer to a decision. Very interested in hearing what you get. :) BTW, what is your player? |
Denon DVD2900
|
Here's the specs on that RCA from Wal-Mart's site:
Digital Light Processing Technology with no burn-in worries. Digital cable ready with integrated high definition tuner. HD connectivity with HDMI. Composite, component, and S-video inputs. Thin and lightweight design - weighing less than 90 pounds and measures 16" deep. 16:9 display. 4-device universal remote control. Parental control, clock, sleep timer, alarm, and equalizer. Screen Size: 50" Screen Type: 16:9 Tuner: NTSC/ATSC/QAM Digital Cable Ready: Yes Comb Filter: 3D Y/C Dig Frame Input Signal Compatibility: 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i Adaptive Video Noise Reduction: Yes Adjustable Color Warmth: Yes Adjustable Picture Control: Yes Format Control: Yes Auto Color Control: Yes DLP Technology: HD5 DarkChip Technology: Yes SmoothPicture: Yes Horizontal Viewing Angle (Degrees): >80 Vertical Viewing Angle (Degrees): >30 Resolution: 1280 x 720 Edge Replacement: Yes Reverse 3:2 Pull Down: Yes Picture Presets: 4+ personal Audio Power (Watts): Front L/R Speakers 10 W/CH Graphic Equalizer: 7 Band Sound Presets: 4+ personal Front Speakers: 2- Full-range Sound Type: Broadcast Stereo w/ dbx Noise Reduction Second Audio Program (SAP): Yes Sound Logic Audio Leveler: Yes Sound Expansion: SRS FOCUS Auto Channel Search: Yes Multilingual On-Screen-Display: English, Spanish, French Auto On + Auto Channel + Auto Volume: Yes Channel Lock: Yes Auto Tune (One-Button Launch): Yes Closed Caption Capability: Yes Front Panel Lock: Yes Maximum volume limiter: Yes Channel Labeling: Auto Commercial Skip: Yes Parental control (V-Chip): USA & Canada Picture Reset: Yes Picture Freeze: Yes Picture Memory Presets for Video Inputs: Yes Clock, Sleep and Alarm Timers: Yes Audio L/R Inputs: 3 Composite Video Inputs: 3 S-Video with Auto-Detect vs. Composite 2x YPrPb with Auto-Detect vs. Composite 2x, SYNCROSCAN PLUS * HDMI: 1 RF Input: 2 L/R Variable/Fixed Outputs: 1 Optical Audio Output (SP-DIF): Yes Front/Side Audio/Video: 1 Front/Side Headphone Jack: Yes Type Universal 4-Device Remote Control Stand Included Power cord NEMA 5-15p (US) included Finish: Black/Silver Diamond Power Supply: (Voltage / Frequency) 90-130V / 60Hz |
Here's an answer someone gave on Yahoo Answers to someone who specifically asked about this model of RCA set. She ended up talking about DLP and RP in general, but I thought I'd get an opinion here on if she knows what she's talking about. I copied and pasted, so if there's any spelling or grammatical errors, they're hers:
I work on both DLP and LCD, and as far as DLP almost over, I totally disagree when you are talking about projection. LCD flat panel is a great investment, but you are going to have to wait for 50". The problem is heat and the intense light. I have had to tell over 20 customers with rear projection LCDs that the blue LCD panel is damaged and the only way I can get that part is to buy a whole new light engine, and the parts start over $900 and there is the labor to think about. The poor customers with no extended warrenty are forced to live with the discoloration, or pay me a bunch. While on the other hand, I have never witnessed one DLP multi-mirrored chip fail. I heard one of my instructor say that they heard one of the first generation IC (4X3) have one mirror stick and the failure was attributed to cigarette smoke. But TIs new chips have a protective cover over the mirrors so this will not happen again. Sure The heat from the lamp still takes out other things, such as color wheels, DMD boards, The lamp itself, and the thermal fuses, but LCD has similar board and fuses prone to the failure. Although I perfer DLP there is one thing to keep in mind when buying a RCA, the color wheel isn't sold separately, and I have change a number of engines because of noisy color wheels. So Pass on RCA but keep DLP. One more big selling point for DLD, in 15 years you can put a new lamp in it and the picture will be as bright and clear as the day you took it out of the box (as long as the optics clean). Now LCD flat panel is the bomb. They have no high intensity lamps to fail or bake the electronic into submission. But again they have back lights that fail (Flourescent tubes don't last forever) and the ballasts work pretty hard. If I was in that market I would find out if the tubes and ballast are available separately or do you have to purchase a new LCD panel when either of them fail. You might want to check out LCOS also. This technology uses reflective properties so the panels last much longer than LCD, and the picture is crisper in my eyes. But any way you go get an extended warrenty and make sure you live in the area of the servicer. |
Just got back from BB. They didn't have the model from the Wal-Mart ad, but that didn't matter too much anyway, since on BB's "no lemon" exchange policy the TV's are just traded out...no remaining credit to apply to anything else. Even swap.
So, here's what I decided on. Unlike the other model mentioned previously, the spec sheet on this one will come up without logging in. I think I'm getting a pretty decent set out of the deal. Plus I have 30 days to buy a new service plan (my service plan on the set I'm turning in expires today). I was really hoping to get it today, but they won't be able to come out to swap them until Tuesday. DAMMIT! :lol: Oh well. I'll still be able to enjoy my old set for a couple more days, for old time's sake. |
Before going with DLP it would be best to take a look at one in action. In the past, some people have been bothered by a "rainbow effect" due to the color wheel.
Higher end setups can get around this by using separate chips/wheels or, I believe, higher speeds for the color wheel. Perhaps this problem has been solved in current models, but in case it hasn't, you ought to be aware of it. Edit: Made this post too late. Since you have already made your choice I hope that it works out well for you! |
I think Best Buy will pricematch, so I'd look online for a cheaper price and print it out to show them.
check tvauthority.com or visualapex.com both of which have really low prices and may have your model |
Originally Posted by lizard
Before going with DLP it would be best to take a look at one in action. In the past, some people have been bothered by a "rainbow effect" due to the color wheel.
|
Originally Posted by dick_grayson
I think Best Buy will pricematch, so I'd look online for a cheaper price and print it out to show them.
check a spammer.com or visualapex.com both of which have really low prices and may have your model BB actually had the one I'm getting on sale for about $1600, so they adjusted it up to make the swap even in their system. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:59 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.