crankyman

you can see it here...
http://maddie_sybert.tripod.com/sonosub_project.html

thanks to patman for all of his help on this...

thought you guys might like to see it.

cranky.

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catware

Good job, but I don't see where you've described how it sounds, though.

Also, did I read correctly that you are using an old DPL receiver to power it, or did you buy a separate amp?

crankyman

catware.

it sounds fantastic for movies. unbelievable actually....i've heard (and felt!) some things that i didn't know were present with my old sub (klipsch 8 inch).

for music, i would rate it good. it certainly goes low (tuned to 19 hz) but lacks punch because of the amplification i'm applying to it. the dpl receiver i'm using to power it is 75 watts per channel into 8 ohms.

the amp i just ordered is 250 watts into a 4 ohm load. this should give me more than enough oomph for music and make movies that much sweeter.

thanks for taking the time to look!


cranky.

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neo247

Thats a sweet a$$ sub!

crankyman

thanks neo.

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catware

crankyman,

I'm currently thinking about building a sonosub--and have visited Patman's website and others--it seems you went with only one Shiva driver--do you think the sound would be better if you had two?

Also, if you don't mind, where and for how much did you purchase the 250W amp?

Using the software programs to calculate sub size such as WinISD, I don't see how the standard store-bought subs can go to 20Hz (with a 12" driver) unless they had at least 6 cubic feet of space...

Taco

Catware, are the programs assuming a closed box. I think a vented system should be able to go lower.

crankyman

quote:<HR>Originally posted by catware:
crankyman,

I'm currently thinking about building a sonosub--and have visited Patman's website and others--it seems you went with only one Shiva driver--do you think the sound would be better if you had two?

Also, if you don't mind, where and for how much did you purchase the 250W amp?

Using the software programs to calculate sub size such as WinISD, I don't see how the standard store-bought subs can go to 20Hz (with a 12" driver) unless they had at least 6 cubic feet of space...<HR>

i did go with only 1 driver. 2 drivers with my configuration would have yielded about 5db more headroom (patman...correct me if my calcs are wrong...). i don't have a very large room to fill and was originally going to go with 18" sonotube (so no room for 2 drivers).

your calculations would be correct. commercial subs have to be widely accepted in the marketplace. this means, usually, as small a footprint as possible. the trick to it is matching the driver's parameters to the correct size enclosure. a single shiva driver likes to live in around 4-6 cu. ft. to achieve optimal results.

as far as commercial subs go...tom vodhanel's svsubs are going to be your best bet for the money....no doubt about it.

i preordered a 250 watt plate amp that i will build a simple box for from http://www.adireaudio.com . i paid 150 for it, but i believe that it is now selling for 179...still an excellent deal.

let us know how your project goes!


cranky.


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Patman

Crankster! an extra driver would give you about 3dB more in headroom.

What I would suggest you to do is take a black magic marker and darken the screw tops for the ports. But it's up to you.

Where did you find the ribbing? I need some, and I didn't like what I found at my local Hancock Fabric store. If I don't find ribbing, I might go with a satin black wrap.



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jpcamb

Looks Sweet! How long did this project take anyhow?

catware

quote:<HR>Originally posted by Taco:
Catware, are the programs assuming a closed box. I think a vented system should be able to go lower.<HR>

WinISD can be downloaded from: http://www.linearteam.org/

It allows you to specify a closed, vented, 4th order bypass, or 6th order bypass box. You can specify an iso-barik setup, number of ports, length and diameter of ports, volume of chamber(s), and tuning frequency. Afterwards, you can graph the SPL or Gain, phase plot and group delay, and by using your mouse, move it around to change the box volume and/or port length to see the graphs change real time.

And, it's free.

catware

How do you calculate the length of ports if a flared port is used?

crankyman

quote:<HR>Originally posted by Patman:
Crankster! an extra driver would give you about 3dB more in headroom.

What I would suggest you to do is take a black magic marker and darken the screw tops for the ports. But it's up to you.

Where did you find the ribbing? I need some, and I didn't like what I found at my local Hancock Fabric store. If I don't find ribbing, I might go with a satin black wrap.

<HR>

3db...thanks.

i got the ribbing at a joann's fabric. it's only like 8 bucks for a 40" long piece. i am going to go this saturday and get some more.

i also need to touch up the legs, banged one of them bringing it in .

well..timewise....patman built 2 of them in the time it took to build one i would say. he has 3 total now.

i'd say it took around 3 weekends for me. now just waitin' on the amp from adire...

cranky.



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Patman

quote:<HR>Originally posted by catware:
How do you calculate the length of ports if a flared port is used?<HR>

Just add 1" to the final straight length that has been determined for a conventional straight port with no flare. For example: if you determine that you need a 20" long port, and if you then use a flared port, then make sure the straight part of the port is 21" long and then you'll have 2 ends with the flared openings (say 1.5" each long) that also extends the length of the port. Then you'd have an "end to end" length of 24" if you used a flared port.

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Shilex

Hey, that's really cool. How much did it end up costing you when you got done?

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'Eritis sicut Deus, scientes bonum et malum.'

necros

That looks pretty sweet

Make me one

crankyman

quote:<HR>Originally posted by Shilex:
Hey, that's really cool. How much did it end up costing you when you got done?

<HR>

hmmm...haven't calculated yet. let's see:

50 bucks for 12 feet of the sonotube.
115 for the driver and terminal cup
25 bucks for the mdf
25 bucks for the laminate
75 bucks for bolts, glues, silicones, screws, nuts, washers, wood patch, etc.
10 bucks for fabric

around 300 bucks or so.

i already had all of the tools necessary (except enough clamps).

it was really more work than money....

cranky.

catware

quote:<HR>Originally posted by cranky:
i already had all of the tools necessary (except enough clamps).<HR>

And the drill press, right?

Also, I have a serious question for you folks--why use more than one driver? I realize that you have "3dB more headroom" but why not simply increase the power to the driver to make it louder? (i.e., turn up the volume) If you have a 250W amp connected to the driver that should be more than loud enough for a living room. Do two drivers give better resolution? Cleaner, tighter sound? Is it that noticeable?

I ask because doubling the volume of the enclosure is a big deal for my living room, if I went with two drivers as Patman did.

Patman

Well, it's about coverage in a room. Have 2 drivers means you are allowing the bass to radiate to more of the room at a given LFE level. Just cranking up the LFE volume level would make the bass overwhelm the rest of the speakers. If you have a small room, one of these sub, properly powered (300W-500W) should be fine.


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ZenDog

quote:<HR>Originally posted by crankyman:
hmmm...haven't calculated yet. let's see:

50 bucks for 12 feet of the sonotube.
115 for the driver and terminal cup
25 bucks for the mdf
25 bucks for the laminate
75 bucks for bolts, glues, silicones, screws, nuts, washers, wood patch, etc.
10 bucks for fabric

around 300 bucks or so.

i already had all of the tools necessary (except enough clamps).

it was really more work than money....

cranky.

<HR>

Are we forgetting about the amp? That would bring the total of the sub to about $450.

Does this sub outperform other subs in it's price range in both SQ and SPL?


[This message has been edited by ZenDog (edited November 03, 2000).]

catware

quote:<HR>Originally posted by ZenDog:
Are we forgetting about the amp? That would bring the total of the sub to about $450.<HR>

I'm still trying to get a definitive answer in my head about which is better, building your own or buying a premade subwoofer. DefTech sells a ProSub 100tl 10" 250W sub that is tuned to 20Hz. It retails for $449, though it can be found for $100 less.

Other than a good project to work on, are there really any advantages to building a single driver sub if you want to get down to 20Hz or so?

damn_skippy

Man i dont know what the hell you guys are talking about but your sonotube sub looks good. I just wish I could hear it.