Question about replacing blown sub
#1
DVD Talk Gold Edition
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Question about replacing blown sub
I blew my subwoofer quite some time ago and just decided to take it apart and attempt to replace the speaker. I don't really understand the ohm ratings though. The sub was rated 28 ohm, at 100W peak. The frequency range is 20hz-200hz and it's 8 inches.
I've been looking around on the net and found some places selling speakers, but everything is rated at 8 ohms or around there. Does this really matter to me? Does anyone have any suggestions on an inexpensive replacement speaker? It's just a kind of cheap pioneer sub, and I don't really have the money to completely replace the thing.
Thanks
I've been looking around on the net and found some places selling speakers, but everything is rated at 8 ohms or around there. Does this really matter to me? Does anyone have any suggestions on an inexpensive replacement speaker? It's just a kind of cheap pioneer sub, and I don't really have the money to completely replace the thing.
Thanks
#2
DVD Talk Legend
I doubt it was rated for 28 ohms, 8 would be normal. In theory if you just blew the driver and can replace it with another in the same cabinet you should be fine. Car audio subs are sold in pieces as well as home audio from a place like www.partsexpress.com.
I believe the brand is Dayton.
I believe the brand is Dayton.
#3
DVD Talk Legend
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: (formerly known as Inglenook Hampendick) Fairbanks, Alaska!
Posts: 17,316
Received 513 Likes
on
353 Posts
Post the exact model of your Pioneer sub, one of us will be able to find the specs and recommend a direct replacement by business and part number, likely.
#6
Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I searched and came up with nothing. My suggestion: Go to partsexpress.com, find the contact info, email them and ask them what they would suggest to replace your sub (make sure to give them the model number and any info you can). They should be able to give you a proper replacement
#7
DVD Talk Legend
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: (formerly known as Inglenook Hampendick) Fairbanks, Alaska!
Posts: 17,316
Received 513 Likes
on
353 Posts
The original Pioneer replacement part number 278604 was discontinued, but they have an approved new replacement part:
Part Number: 283012
Description: WOOFER 8" (SUBWOOFER)
Retail Price: $94.36
Your Price:
Status: IN-STOCK
No tech specs yet. Will keep looking.
Part Number: 283012
Description: WOOFER 8" (SUBWOOFER)
Retail Price: $94.36
Your Price:
Status: IN-STOCK
No tech specs yet. Will keep looking.
#8
Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by AGuyNamedMike
The original Pioneer replacement part number 278604 was discontinued, but they have an approved new replacement part:
Part Number: 283012
Description: WOOFER 8" (SUBWOOFER)
Retail Price: $94.36
Your Price:
Status: IN-STOCK
No tech specs yet. Will keep looking.
Part Number: 283012
Description: WOOFER 8" (SUBWOOFER)
Retail Price: $94.36
Your Price:
Status: IN-STOCK
No tech specs yet. Will keep looking.
I looked for a while and kept coming up with nothing
#9
DVD Talk Legend
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: (formerly known as Inglenook Hampendick) Fairbanks, Alaska!
Posts: 17,316
Received 513 Likes
on
353 Posts
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/...ductNum=283012
It's just a matter of experience. I used to be a full service PC, printer, and appliance repair tech and finding parts was a daily task. Much of the web is considered "dark" and unsearchable by standard search engines. This includes parts sites, with database driven dynamic content. I just went to the Pioneer parts site and searched for replacement parts for the SFCRW720 (removed dashes and the trailing S, which was merely a color code for silver). Anyhow, at that price, your recommendation to Ergyu is the best one. He should contact PartsExpress and have them spec a replacement driver for his application.
It's just a matter of experience. I used to be a full service PC, printer, and appliance repair tech and finding parts was a daily task. Much of the web is considered "dark" and unsearchable by standard search engines. This includes parts sites, with database driven dynamic content. I just went to the Pioneer parts site and searched for replacement parts for the SFCRW720 (removed dashes and the trailing S, which was merely a color code for silver). Anyhow, at that price, your recommendation to Ergyu is the best one. He should contact PartsExpress and have them spec a replacement driver for his application.
#10
DVD Talk Gold Edition
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks a lot for the information guys. I thought to check Partsexpress first but hadn't done it yet. I understand everything in relation to it except the ohm ratings. Everything I ever see is something like 2, 4, 8 ohms. If I bought a speaker that had the range of frequency I desired, but had an ohm rating of 8, would that work? Thanks again.
#12
Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The amp from the sub should be able to handle anything down to 4ohms at least. A lot of amps (not all) give more power the lower the ohm rating, ie: some amps produce 110 watts x 2 @ 8ohms and 150 watts x 2 @ 4ohms. I'd try and find out some info about the amp in order to make a decision on which driver to get.
#13
DVD Talk Gold Edition
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 2,847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by AGuyNamedMike
Sounds like a plan. How many wires are connected to the speaker itself? We need to determine if it is dual voice coil or not.
#14
Suspended
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One positive connected to just one spot on the speaker, same with negative, means a single voice coil configuration. Doesn't really matter though. What matters is what ohm the amp can handle. Find that out, and then match it up with speaker ohms. The more voice coils the speaker has, the more versatile it is when hooking it up, ie: A dual 4ohm speaker can either run 2ohm or 8 ohm, a dual 8 ohms can either run 16ohm or 4 ohm.