Is there any specific settings I have to check to prevent screen burn?

Most important is turning down the contrast. Most TV's should have their contrast levels set well below 50%. Mine is around 35%. If you have a DVD player, get a copy of either Avia or Digital Video Essentials to calibrate your TV. These DVDs will help you set contrast and brightness, as well as color and other settings, to the correct levels relative to your viewing environment.

Other than that, your best bet is through your viewing habits. Avoid watching channels with scrolling news tickers for long periods of time. If you have a widescreen, use the stretch modes when watching 4:3 channels.

They also recommend staying away from gaming on on RPTVs. Ditto the constrast. Immediately upon opening, turn contrast all the way down from what we like to call torch mode.

Thanks.
Has anyone ever had any problems playing games on RPTVs- The Xbox would probably look awesome on it

If you're looking to play XBOX on a RPTV make sure you buy one that does 720p natively. Most RPTV's do not. I have a Mitsu and none of them do. Not sure what brands/models do but it is very limited.

I think u mean 480P, which is native to all RPHDTV
very few XBOX games support 720p, so it's not necessary

No, he means 720p. Without it, you can't play the few games that are available in 720p in all their glory, because the XBox will not scale to 1080i.

My Toshiba 57HX83 does both 720p and 1080i.

Exactly. The XBOX games that do 720p cannot be played in 720p on a Mitsu or most other RPTV's.

Unlike Mits most other RPTVs will at least accept a 720p signal from Xbox and convert it to either540p or 1080i for display. Mits just won't accept or display it from Xbox.

my Tosh 57H93 upconverts the 720 to 1080i

i'm a little confused... why won't the Mits accept the 720??


I own a PS2.... anything i should know about playing it on my 48413??

thanks

The older (pre-2004) PS2's are only interlaced. The newer models (all that are in stores now) have a progressive scan out option (480p I believe).

super... now i need to pull a scam of some sort

i'm thinking i could buy one.... and switch the units??

i would never do it but is it possible??

I have a few related questions:
With regards to a PS2 and a WS TV: Other than the games that are 'progressive video', will there be any advantage to using the component cables? If I ran the component cables to the 'HD' input of my tv, will all games be visible [I do have the newer PS2.] I guess, does the PS2's progressive setting 'upconvert' non-progressive games, so I could at least play everything through Component to HD input?
Some games [Baldur's Gate: Dark Alliance, GTA III] have a 'widescreen' setting. Is that setting only useful if using the component cables? My tv, if you have a 4:3 signal which the PS2 using the composite cables is, has 4 modes: 4:3, 4:3 Zoom, Widescreen, and Panorama. When playing BGA I have the tv on Widescreen and the game on Widescreen, and it looks good.

Re: burn-in. The PS2 manual says 'Do Not use this console on a projection tv.' Game manuals say 'Don't use this game on a projection tv without reading the tv manual.' How likely is burnin? I have my settings down to about 1/2 brightness/contrast, and if I pause the game for more than say 5 minutes, I turn off the TV. I'm noticing that many games that I've been playing change screens at least every, say, 10 minutes [Offroad Fury 2: after races; BGA: when going into town or inventory screen; Final Fantasy X--exploration vs. combat vs. inventory] so I'm wondering how sensitive the TV actually is to burnin. It's not like I'm playing Pac-Man, where the maze is always the same and in the same place, for 5 hours straight.

I don't think you will have a problem with burn-in as long as you keep a few things in mind. Make sure your contrast is properly set (typically at 50% or lower). I wouldn't play alot of games on mine until is was "broken in" (at least 100 hours of use). Make sure you don't play games with static graphics (stuff that doesn't move) for extended periods. Don't use the TV exclusively for gaming. In other words, keep a varied mix of source material that uses the screen equally. I try to not play one game for a longer than an hour at a time. If it is going to be more than an hour, I take breaks and watch regular cable for awhile.

No, this usually won't work. If you look on your receipt, most expensive electronics print out the serial number of the unit on the receipt. When you try to return it, they look to match the serial numbers. It's an old scam that has been used alot in the past. Nowadays, retailers are smarter.

In regards to the component cabling question: the games that offer the "Widescreen' option do not change the display settings (i.e. 480i, 480p, 720p, etc.) It just changes the pixel orientation on the screen for widescreen TVs.

If you want progressive out for your PS2, then you must buy component cables, no way around it really. Anyway, you need to get rid of that composite cable man. You will notice a difference. The 'new' PS2 is progressive out for DVDs, but mentions nothing about what it outputs for games. I would suspect though that if you select 'Progressive' in the options menu on the PS2 unit that it always outputs in progressive mode.

In terms of burn-in, it only affects stationary items on the screen (health meter, menu, etc.). That is the main reason why I went with a front projector instead of rear projector, due to all of the gaming I do.

all PS2 have the ability to output 480p games... the newer PS2 with the + on the box have the ability to do games and movies in Prog Scan... So no matter what PS2 you have, you can get 480P games, I do on my PS2 and toshiba RPTV... No worries man... Buy the component cables

When setting up the levels for my RPTV, there is not a "contrast" setting. There is brightness but not one for contrast. I have the Panasonic 47wx53, so should I just worry about setting the brightness down to below 50%? Also what are some places that have the calibration discs? I have went to my local best buy and circuit city (either one never has anything I want anymore) and they dont have them. Any other stores that would carry them. I am trying to not have to buy it online because it takes forever to get anything where I live now.

If you don't have a contrast setting do you have a setting called picture? Brightness controls the black level and how black the blacks get. Contrast or Picture controls the white level and how bright the whites are. The brighter the whites the more risk of burn in on the CRTs. Every TV is different so one person's 50% is another person's 75%. There is only one right setting for your TV and it needs to be found with a calibration disc and your DVD player.

I do have the picture setting. Thanks for the info, I was going insane trying to find a contrast setting. Hopefully I can find one of the calibration discs around town, or Ill just have to break down and buy it online.