Reciever Turns Off At Loud Volumes
#1
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Reciever Turns Off At Loud Volumes
I own the Kenwood VR-507 and recently, I've noticed that loud volumes make my receiver turn off. Well... Not off per say... But the "Standby" light above the power button starts blinking and no sounds comes out of the speakers until I turn the receiver off then on. I was able to play Fight Club Plane Crash scene at about -25db (or until my neighbors complained heheehehe) and I recently tried to play the opening scene in Memento at full blast and it just shut off. And during the loud crack of thunder while watching O Brother, Where Art Thou? in DTS. Ack! It's driving me nuts!
Help!
Help!
#2
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Have you been using your receiver for some time before it cuts off?
This sounds like a case of overheating. The loud sound levels heat up the inside of the receiver then cause the internal heat sensor to put the unit into thermal protect. If this is the case, try increasing ventilation and maybe add a cooling fan.
J
This sounds like a case of overheating. The loud sound levels heat up the inside of the receiver then cause the internal heat sensor to put the unit into thermal protect. If this is the case, try increasing ventilation and maybe add a cooling fan.
J
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I thought of something else if it is not overheating. At those loud level does the sound begin to diatort from your receiver, or at the limits of it's volume range?
You could be pushing the ampsection to clipping causing the receiver to go into protect mode as well. If this is the case, there really is no solution (other than listening to your movies not so loud)...it means it is time to upgrade to external amps, or a new receiver.
J
You could be pushing the ampsection to clipping causing the receiver to go into protect mode as well. If this is the case, there really is no solution (other than listening to your movies not so loud)...it means it is time to upgrade to external amps, or a new receiver.
J
#5
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Originally posted by Master J
Have you been using your receiver for some time before it cuts off?
This sounds like a case of overheating. The loud sound levels heat up the inside of the receiver then cause the internal heat sensor to put the unit into thermal protect. If this is the case, try increasing ventilation and maybe add a cooling fan.
J
Have you been using your receiver for some time before it cuts off?
This sounds like a case of overheating. The loud sound levels heat up the inside of the receiver then cause the internal heat sensor to put the unit into thermal protect. If this is the case, try increasing ventilation and maybe add a cooling fan.
J
#6
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Originally posted by Master J
I thought of something else if it is not overheating. At those loud level does the sound begin to diatort from your receiver, or at the limits of it's volume range?
You could be pushing the ampsection to clipping causing the receiver to go into protect mode as well. If this is the case, there really is no solution (other than listening to your movies not so loud)...it means it is time to upgrade to external amps, or a new receiver.
J
I thought of something else if it is not overheating. At those loud level does the sound begin to diatort from your receiver, or at the limits of it's volume range?
You could be pushing the ampsection to clipping causing the receiver to go into protect mode as well. If this is the case, there really is no solution (other than listening to your movies not so loud)...it means it is time to upgrade to external amps, or a new receiver.
J
#7
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Originally posted by Rupin
A similar problem happened to me.....I made sure the speaker wires were connected tightly to the receiver....the problem went away after I tightened them a bit.
Hope this helps.
A similar problem happened to me.....I made sure the speaker wires were connected tightly to the receiver....the problem went away after I tightened them a bit.
Hope this helps.
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Originally posted by CKMorpheus
It's quite cool in the spot it's near. Right next to the air conditioning vent, as a matter of fact.
It's quite cool in the spot it's near. Right next to the air conditioning vent, as a matter of fact.
I am not too familiar with your particular Kenwood model, but if you gave us the rated wattage as well as the speakers you are using it could help better determine if clipping is an issue.
J
#9
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Originally posted by Master J
When it comes to clipping heat has nothing to with the situation. It just means that the amp section is driven to its functional limits, and can go no further in the power department.
I am not too familiar with your particular Kenwood model, but if you gave us the rated wattage as well as the speakers you are using it could help better determine if clipping is an issue.
J
When it comes to clipping heat has nothing to with the situation. It just means that the amp section is driven to its functional limits, and can go no further in the power department.
I am not too familiar with your particular Kenwood model, but if you gave us the rated wattage as well as the speakers you are using it could help better determine if clipping is an issue.
J
The successor to Kenwood's critically acclaimed HTB-503, the HTB-504 adds Dolby Pro Logic II and a velvet-textured universal remote control. KAM-1™ amplifiers (100 watts x 5) complement Dolby Digital, DTS, and CS Circle Surround decoding. Magnetically shielded two-way acoustic suspension front speakers with dual woofers match seamlessly with full range surrounds. A powered subwoofer with separate 100-watt amplifier completes the package.
GENERAL FEATURES
- AC Accessory Outlets: 2
- Audio Muting: using Remote
- Auto Function One-Touch Operation
- Direct Component Control
- Direct Input Source Selection: using Remote
- Dynamic Rotary Encoder Volume Control
- Finish: Velvet-Textured
- Fluorescent Display: with Volume Indication
- Last Sound Mode Memory
- System Control Connections for Kenwood Components: SL16 Format
- Variable Input Sensitivity: with Individual Source Memory
- Bass Boost
POWER RATINGS
- Stereo Power: 100 Watts per Channel (FTC, Left/Right, 20Hz - 20kHz, 0.7% THD, 8 ohms)
- Surround Power: 100 Watts x 5
- Surround Power (Center): 100 Watts (20Hz - 20kHz, 0.7% THD, 8 ohms)
- Surround Power (Left/Right): 100 Watts + 100 Watts (20Hz - 20kHz, 0.7% THD, 8 ohms)
- Surround Power (LSurround/RSurround): 100 Watts + 100 Watts (20Hz - 20kHz, 0.7% THD, 8 ohms)
AUDIO FEATURES
- Analog Audio Inputs/Outputs: 8 / 3 (Total)
- Balance Control
- Bass Management: Full Digital, Dual-Precision
- Channel Level Control: 5.1 Channel Independent
- Cinema EQ
- Digital Signal Format Auto Detection/Auto Switching: DTS, Dolby Digital, and PCM
- Digital to Analog Converter: 24-Bit Resolution
- Dolby 3 Stereo: Full Digital
- Dolby Digital
- Dolby Pro Logic: Full Digital
- DSP Processor: 24-Bit Crystal Semiconductor
- DTS Digital Surround
- Headphone Jack
- Midnight Theater Mode: 2-Stage
- Phono Input with RIAA EQ
- Pink Noise Generator for Speaker Balancing
- Preouts: Subwoofer
- Source Direct Listening Mode
- Tone Controls: Bass, Treble
AMPLIFIER FEATURES
- A/B Speaker Output: Parallel
- KAM-1 Power Amplifier Circuitry
- Speaker Connectors: Banana Plug-Compatible (L/C/R Channels), One-Touch (Surround Channels)
MINI DISC FEATURES
- Analog-to-Digital Converter: 24-Bit Resolution
TUNER FEATURES
- Automatic and Manual Tuning
- Direct Access Tuning: with Remote
- Direct Preset Call: with Remote
- Quartz PLL Synthesized Digital Tuning
- Station Presets: 40 (FM/AM)
VIDEO FEATURES
- Front Panel AV/Aux Input: with S-Video
- S-Video Inputs and Outputs
- Video Inputs: 4 Composite, 4 S-Video
- Video Monitor Outputs: 1 Composite, 1 S-Video
- Video Record Outputs: 1 Composite, 1 S-Video
REMOTE CONTROL FEATURES
- Remote Control: New Universal Pre-Programmed
ACCESSORY FEATURES
- Auto Input Naming
- Auto Input Recognition
#10
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I agree with Master J on this one. At loud volumes, if a soundtrack hits a particlular frequency (usually low bass) it's pulling too much juice from the amp in your receiver to handle, and the amp shuts off before it fries itself.
I don't have the movies you mentioned, but when you say 'loud crack of thunder', that's the first thing that comes to mind.
Also, what does 'full blast' mean? Are your speakers calibrated to reference levels, or did you literally turn the master volume all the way up? It also depends on how your speakers are set- if you have them set to 'large', your receiver is trying to play the entire soundtrack rather then letting your powered sub's amp handle the low frequencies, and trust me...100 watts x5 don't mean 100 watts
I am making alot of assumptions here as to your actual settings and connections, so any info you share would help out quite a bit.
I don't have the movies you mentioned, but when you say 'loud crack of thunder', that's the first thing that comes to mind.
Also, what does 'full blast' mean? Are your speakers calibrated to reference levels, or did you literally turn the master volume all the way up? It also depends on how your speakers are set- if you have them set to 'large', your receiver is trying to play the entire soundtrack rather then letting your powered sub's amp handle the low frequencies, and trust me...100 watts x5 don't mean 100 watts
I am making alot of assumptions here as to your actual settings and connections, so any info you share would help out quite a bit.
Last edited by DVD_O_Rama; 09-20-01 at 11:18 AM.
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Re: In a nutshell....
Originally posted by ngp
Your speakers aren't able to handle the output. They may either be inadequet for the Amp or they are mismatched in the Omh rating.
Your speakers aren't able to handle the output. They may either be inadequet for the Amp or they are mismatched in the Omh rating.
There really is no such thing as speakers being inadequate for an amp. If a speaker has a really low power rating it will just cause the voice coil on the speaker to fry not the amp to shut off and go into protect mode. His speakers continue to work so this is not the case by any means.
I partially agree that using a speaker with different ohm rating then what is optimal can cause an amp to overheat, but once again this is a home theater in the box where the speakers are matched to the receiver.
J
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I am not sure exactly where the Thermal Sensor is located in your Kenwood model, but as cool as you think the surroundings of the receiver are, I think you may still need to add a cooling fan. If your receiver has poor ventilation simply from design issues, it may be cool around the receiver's environment, but hot air is being traped inside raising the entire temperature.
Radio shack has some smallish computer style cooling fan that you can put an AC cord on (they may already have some with an AC cord attached). Place the fan near the vents (for a better installation it might make sense to take off the outer casing and screw the fan into the casing to keep it in place) on the receiver casing pointing on the heat sink areas inside. If your receiver has a switched outlet on the back, just plug the fan in there so it comes on with the receiver and goes off when you are done using the receiver. Hopefully this will help your problem.
J
Radio shack has some smallish computer style cooling fan that you can put an AC cord on (they may already have some with an AC cord attached). Place the fan near the vents (for a better installation it might make sense to take off the outer casing and screw the fan into the casing to keep it in place) on the receiver casing pointing on the heat sink areas inside. If your receiver has a switched outlet on the back, just plug the fan in there so it comes on with the receiver and goes off when you are done using the receiver. Hopefully this will help your problem.
J