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Brand name CD-R vs. generic CD-R

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Brand name CD-R vs. generic CD-R

Old 10-16-01, 12:26 PM
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Brand name CD-R vs. generic CD-R

Don't know if any of you experiene this, but when I burn audio files on generic CD-R the filet takes twice to load as the brand name CD-R(Memorex, Sony, TDK, etc). And a lot of times the song would skip or pause for a second or two during playback.
Anyone cares to comment?
Old 10-16-01, 02:16 PM
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i've only burnt around 200 or so CD's in my life, but here's my story.

i've had as much/little luck with those free (after rebate) store brand cd-r's as with the Maxell, PNY, Imation, Sony, TDK, and other name brands.

when i had the Yamaha burner, i'd get an error one out of 4 or 5 cd's. i've heard good things about the Yamaha burners, but i've only had trouble with them. so about 3 (?) months ago, i bought a 16x Plextor with BURN-Proof. so far, no coasters yet, even on the generic brand (i've only burnt like 20 CD's so far on the Plextor though).
Old 10-16-01, 02:52 PM
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I burned about 400-500 CDRs. Only Kodak discs and I never got a bad disc from them so I'll stick with them for now Unfortunately they stopped selling their gold discs. They now sell gold+silver disc, we'll see if they are as good (at least they are cheaper). If you know where to buy them, a branded disc should not cost you much more than a no name disc. And I always buy them in small computer shops, you would be surprised to see how many brands they have and that they can beat Costco (or any big name) with a better price.

I did burn ~10 Dataware discs and never had a problem but it was at a time where Kodak was not making 80 min discs.
Old 10-16-01, 05:04 PM
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I've never used any of the truly generic brands
I've bought some real cheap thinking they were generic and they ended up being made by the same actual disk maker as some of the name brand disks.
kind of like how a ketchup factory puts the same ketchup in ten different brands of bottles
Old 10-16-01, 05:29 PM
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Trial & error seems to be the only way to really be sure.

In my particular case, I have come across some CDRs that had trouble burning at 8x which is the max my Iomega can go, but nothing more severe than that. I've made quite a few coasters of a certain brand (Memorex--ugh) when trying to do 8x, but at 4x or less they're fine. Other kinds burn at 8x 100% of the time.
Old 10-16-01, 05:29 PM
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I think with CDRs it's always a crapshoot... it's either the CDR that's weird, or your CDRW drive that craps out on the burn. Personally I've never had a bad CDR disc, but the drive itself has made several coasters (due to buffer-underrun and whatnot).

If name brand stuff makes you feel more comfortable, by all means go with it. I'm not sure there is a definitive answer to your question...

-BT
Old 10-16-01, 06:08 PM
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http://www.cdrfaq.org/faq07.html#S7
Old 10-17-01, 01:34 AM
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I've burned over 1000 cds in the 3 1/2 years I've had a CD burner, and I have never had a problem with generic cds. I'd say I've had maybe 4-5 bad cds in my life, and I've gone through maybe 700 generic or crappy brand cds.
Old 11-02-01, 10:23 PM
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Originally posted by BT
Personally I've never had a bad CDR disc, but the drive itself has made several coasters (due to buffer-underrun and whatnot).
-BT
Does anyone know how to correct/prevent buffer-underrun? I believe that's what's causing my burnt cd's to make a repetitious clicking sound during playback. I've even tried recording as slow as 4x to no prevail. To stay on topic though, I've always used generic cd-r's (GQ - Great Quality from Fry's) with no probs until recently.
Old 11-02-01, 11:08 PM
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I've been burning CD-Rs since before RW was on the market, and blank CD-Rs cost more than $10.00. I've never had a coaster yet that wasn't related to a computer lockdown or user error. I've used several brands in several colors, with no noticible difference in quality in the disks I've used. I even have remaining 8-speed rated disks from back when 8x was the highest avaiable that burn with no errors at 16x. I may be wrong, but I'm thinking that most of the pressing problems have been worked out by now. (BTW, on a slightly tangental note, Office Max has 100-disk spindles of Memorex 80-min, 16x CD-Rs on sale for 22 bucks. My store was sold out, but they substitued two 50-disk spindles for the same price. Which means that I now pay about the same price for 50 disks that I originally paid for 1).

As for the issue of preventing buffer underruns, honestly the best solution is to buy an new CD-RW drive. Office Max, again, has an 8x drive on sale for $50 and a 16x for $90.

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