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-   -   I need some help with the camera I just got. Nikon FE 35mm (https://forum.dvdtalk.com/other-talk/482666-i-need-some-help-camera-i-just-got-nikon-fe-35mm.html)

lukewarmwater 11-03-06 11:31 PM

I need some help with the camera I just got. Nikon FE 35mm
 
Okay the camera I have is an old nikon FE 35mm. The problem I'm having is I thought the f measurements/fstops is for measuring the light with a light meter. And the focus ring was for depth of field, but when I went to the camera store the clerk said that what I thought was the light measurments was what you used for depth of feild. Which is confusing me. If that's right then what do you do to measure light? What does, what I thought the focus ring do then if the F numbers are for depth of field.

I assumed you would use the focus ring to find the right focus, you would use a light meter to measure your subject, which would give you a rating, like 5.6. And then you would use the shutter speed to match the needle and go one over or under if you want to under/over expose. But that's not what the camera guys said. When I worked with film, as in moving pictures, cameras that was how you did it.

And on top of that I couldn't get the camera to take pictures when the shutter speed was on auto, but now that I moved the shutter speed to "B", what ever the hell that is, it will take pictures, but I have no clue if they will even turn out.

And I didn't get an instruction booklet with this or any info included with the camera.

This is what the camera looks like:
http://www.nikon.co.jp/main/eng/port...fe_em/fe_i.jpg

http://www.berejst.dk/019/Foto_NikonFE2.jpg
This is how I thought it worked:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...brainhurts.jpg

For some reason its not letting me post this, but:
Ok, so after playing with it a bit I got that the shutter speed is based on light and if I do it manually I need to adjust it to the needle. The light meter is built in and it does work. Like a 8 is really dark, and opens the shutter for a longer time and a 250 is really bright, which has a really fast shutter speed. So thanks for clearing that part up.

And I figured out that the focus is not the same as the appature

And I got that by adjusting the aperture you adjust the focus of the foreground,background, depth of field, etc, but how can you tell by looking throught the camera? When I press the side button to preview, all it does is make it darker.

Buford T Pusser 11-03-06 11:47 PM

The focus ring is for focusing the picture.

There is a built-in light meter.

You set the film speed and can either shoot manually trying to match the needle through a combo of the shutter speed and aperture.

Or you can put it on A for Auto and it will do it for you. Sounds like the best bet for you right now.

As far as shutter speed as a general rule you would want to shoot 1/250 sec. or higher w/people.

The aperture: f/4 does not have a large depth of field compared to F/8 which has more, etc.




B stands for bulb. As long as you depress the button the shutter stays open. So if it's not very dark it will not turn out.


Is the needle working? If only B works it sounds like you need new batteries.

shaun3000 11-03-06 11:50 PM

See: http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography.../fe2/index.htm

Your focus ring sets what you are focusing on, in feet from the camera. The aperture (f) and shutter both adjust amount of light coming in. Shutter adjusts the length and the aperture changes the intensity by varying the size of the opening. The aperture also sets your depth of field, or how much in front and behind your subject is also in focus. A bigger F number will equal a smaller hole, which lets in less light but gives a deeper depth of field.

Just a guess on the Auto function, the camera probably needs a battery to power the light meter. I would imagine this also powers the auto function. Everything else, including cocking the shutter, should be manual.

lukewarmwater 11-04-06 02:11 AM

Ok, so after playing with it a bit I got that the shutter speed is based on light and if I do it manually I need to adjust it to the needle. The light meter is built in and it does work. Like a 8 is really dark, and opens the shutter for a longer time and a 250 is really bright, which has a really fast shutter speed. So thanks for clearing that part up.

And I figured out that the focus is not the same as the appature

And I got that by adjusting the aperture you adjust the focus of the foreground,background, depth of field, etc, but how can you tell by looking throught the camera? When I press the side button to preview, all it does is make it darker.

Buford T Pusser 11-04-06 09:47 AM

Well yeah it's getting darker cuz you're stopping down the lens. The blades close according to the aperture to show you what is in focus. That feature obviously? works better in the outdoors-sun is a plus.

Another approximate way is using the marks on the lens. Notice the silver between the aperture and feet? Find the corresponding color mark and anything between those marks will be in focus.


8 is 1/8 of a second. 250 is 1/250 of a second. And so on.

OldDude 11-04-06 10:35 AM

Everything is inter-related and you have to make compromises.

You'd like to use a slow, low-grain, high-resolution film, you'd like to stop down the lens for tremendous depth of field, and use a high shutter speed to stop action. Unfortunately, you'd have to burn the subject with the Airborne Laser from the missile defense system to get enough light on the subject.

1) You have to know your main subject and focus on it. Not much interaction there.

2) Now given film speed and light on subject you have to get a correct exposure. You may have a few choices then you can decide whether shutter speed is most important to stop action, or aperature for depth of field. Typically, you CAN'T have all you want of both without getting more light on the subject.

With a 50 mm lens, even with stationary subject, you will have trouble holding camera steady below 1/50 of second. In general, if I can't stop down to at least f/5.6, depth of field won't be very satisfactory (to me). At that limit, it is time to think seriously about more light (flash). If you CAN'T bring more light to bear, use a tripod or brace yourself, use lower shutter speed and/or open aperature and hope for best.

At 1/250 second, you will stop most casual motion but not extreme sports, where you may need 1/1000 s. You get a lot more depth of field at f/11 of f/16. Getting to both those requires full sun or a LOT of light.

You really ought to locate a manual for the camera or a more general book on photography. It will help you get comfortable with the compromises you have to make. You have to get proper exposure. Your ability to control depth of field and stop action will be constrained and you will have rather limited choices. Focus on the subject and concentrate on the exposure first.

lukewarmwater 11-04-06 03:24 PM


Originally Posted by Buford T Pusser
Notice the silver between the aperture and feet? Find the corresponding color mark and anything between those marks will be in focus.

OKay there are colored lines but the only some of the numbers on the apature lense are colored. 1.8, 2.8, 4 and 8 are just white numbers. Is that right?

But for the numbers that are colored, let me see if I figured this out.

If I'm looking through my 50mm lense and the subject is 3 feet away and I set the apature to 11 then I find the two colored bars that match the color of the 11, which would be like 3.4 to 2.7, which would mean everything in that range would be in focus, where if I were to adujust the apature to 22, which I would need a lot of light for, would mean everything from 4 ft to 2.5 would be in focus. Did I do that right?

And I'm taking a lot of pictures with different settings, shutter speeds, apatures to test it out.

Buford T Pusser 11-04-06 08:15 PM

That sounds right to me but I don't have the lens to check.

Buford T Pusser 11-04-06 08:15 PM

Be sure to post some pics!!!!!!!!


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