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Advise on finishing basement

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Advise on finishing basement

Old 08-23-06, 05:49 PM
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Advice on finishing basement

I plan of finishing my basement in the near future and could use some advise on the best way to finish things. I am physically capable of finishing it myself but lack experience as I havent every really finished a basement before. Thought I could get some wisdom from some people here who have done so before. We just bought this house and are moving in at the end of Sept.

Here are a few pictures of what I have to work with. The space is a little less than 900sq/ft. It is a walkout basement. Home is located in Raleigh NC. Basement is dry. Seller did note that once during a heavy rainstorm that there were "wet spots" on one of the walls (had about 6 inches in 2 days).

FLOOR:
What prep work needs to be done to the floor in order to put a finish floor on it. I am thinking possibly pergo or carpet. Havent made up my mind yet. Do I need a vapor barrier on the floor? (6mil plastic). Have been reading differnt things on what to do with the floor. Any ideas?

I'll leave it at that now and see how this progesses. Thanks

WALLS:
What gets me is how the cinderblock steps out from the framed wall that is above grade. How should I finish the walls? Keep the step? Stud from the ground up with the studs against the cinder blocks. What do I do to prep the walls. Again vapor barrier, what kind. Basically what needs to be done to ensure little dampness.








Last edited by habers; 08-25-06 at 09:35 AM.
Old 08-23-06, 09:05 PM
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I did a rough finish of mine. I painted the ceiling joists and all the mechanicals black, drywalled floor to ceiling and boxed in the support beams with drywall. I went to the carpet store and picked up a remnant for the floor. Since we have a lot of moisture I figure this is the best solution, if it gets ruined I just toss it out and didn't lose much money.

If you have modest ability at home improvement, the process isn't all that difficult. Just remember, your first drywall job, will look like it, but it is a basement. It will be fine to go down there and use the treadmill or play ping pong. Makes a great playroom for kids.

If you want living space equal to the upstairs you can hire someone but the cost will go up quick.
Old 08-23-06, 09:37 PM
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Is that a picture of your electrical service? I'm not OldDude, but I am pretty sure that there is no way that meets any Electrical Building Code.
Old 08-23-06, 09:46 PM
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The copper and black tube are for the airconditioner. The other looks like the water drain tube.
Old 08-24-06, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by crazyronin


Is that a picture of your electrical service? I'm not OldDude, but I am pretty sure that there is no way that meets any Electrical Building Code.
AC it is

Last edited by habers; 08-24-06 at 12:11 AM.
Old 08-24-06, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by habers
AC it is

here's what I pictured when I read that:


Old 08-24-06, 10:20 AM
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My advice is to learn the difference between "advise" and "advice."

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Old 08-24-06, 05:09 PM
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ok.... first I have to ask about the tire in the corner.... which driver is it from? (Personally, I have a Dale Jarrett tire on my wall)

As for finishing, it looks like someone has done a decent job starting.... are you planning on keeping the existing wall that is framed? (In the 3rd pic). I would frame up from the floor in the areas where the concrete block sticks out from the wall.... sure you loose a little space, but you can also hide the plumbing/drains. Bottom (footer) for the walls should probably be treated lumber. I assume you'd want some sort of vapor barrior on the floor, but i'm not exactly sure what you'd want. Learn what the code is for your town/city. I live in an area that has no building codes, so I have more freedom with what I'm allowed to do than most people.
Old 08-25-06, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by eightiesguy
ok.... first I have to ask about the tire in the corner.... which driver is it from? (Personally, I have a Dale Jarrett tire on my wall)

As for finishing, it looks like someone has done a decent job starting.... are you planning on keeping the existing wall that is framed? (In the 3rd pic). I would frame up from the floor in the areas where the concrete block sticks out from the wall.... sure you loose a little space, but you can also hide the plumbing/drains. Bottom (footer) for the walls should probably be treated lumber. I assume you'd want some sort of vapor barrior on the floor, but i'm not exactly sure what you'd want. Learn what the code is for your town/city. I live in an area that has no building codes, so I have more freedom with what I'm allowed to do than most people.

Thanks for the advice. Not sure who's tire it is, we havent moved in yet so all that stuff is the sellers. Thanks again!
Old 08-25-06, 12:37 PM
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i'm in the midst of finishing my basement from scratch. the best advice I can offer is to think long and hard about what you want to do, draw up some sketches of the floor plans, and go to the library and get 3-4 books on wiring, plumbing, drywall etc.

as for vapor barriers, do some research on this. you don't want one on a below grade wall - thinking on this has changed drastically since all vapor barriers really do is trap moisture between it and the wall - creating mold and smells and all kinds of problems. This was the most useful thing I found on-line:

http://www.buildingscience.com/resou...stems-2002.pdf

I would at minimum frame in the solid concrete walls after gluing 1-2 inches of RIGID POLYSTYRENE insulation. it does not absorb moisture, but instead allows it to breathe through slowly. You don't want to seel off the walls. same goes for the floor. you can put any kind of flooring down there, but may want to consider a subfloor if you are doing carpet. Then just put a dehumidifier down there and you'll be fine. The above grade walls (next the sliding glass for instance) can have regular bat insulation and do require a vapor barrier.

as for the staggered cinderblock walls, those are kind of cool. they can be painted or stained, so I'd research those options. I can see those being pretty cool if you simply framed above them to the edge and drywalled above it.
Old 08-25-06, 03:45 PM
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ONe of the things I would do is paint that cinder block with a DRYLOCK paint so you never have any water seeping through.

Those walls are tough. I would probably start at the floor and go all the way up with your framing. You will loose some space but you limited.
I disagree with the above post about insulating because I would put plastic up against the cinder block and run it up to the ceiling. Try to keep the top part of the plastic open so the wall can breath. Then do your framing and add r13 insulation from floor to ceiling. Make sure to do your electrical before insulating so you can run the conduit behind the framing.

Dpepending how thick those walls are, you could even put the 2x4 on its side and nail or glue it to the cinder block and run it all the way up.
Old 08-25-06, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by drmoze
My advice is to learn the difference between "advise" and "advice."

[See sig]

I think the thread title would have been ok with either. *shrug*
Old 08-25-06, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ANDREMIKE
I disagree with the above post about insulating because I would put plastic up against the cinder block and run it up to the ceiling.
and in 5-10 years the basement will smell funky and have mold behind the walls.
Old 08-25-06, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ANDREMIKE
ONe of the things I would do is paint that cinder block with a DRYLOCK paint so you never have any water seeping through.

Those walls are tough. I would probably start at the floor and go all the way up with your framing. You will loose some space but you limited.
I disagree with the above post about insulating because I would put plastic up against the cinder block and run it up to the ceiling. Try to keep the top part of the plastic open so the wall can breath. Then do your framing and add r13 insulation from floor to ceiling. Make sure to do your electrical before insulating so you can run the conduit behind the framing.

Dpepending how thick those walls are, you could even put the 2x4 on its side and nail or glue it to the cinder block and run it all the way up.
does that drylock stuff work well? I plan on purchasing a house or townhouse in the not too distant future and one of the things I'm looking to do is finish the basement and I've wondered how effective that stuff is.
Old 08-26-06, 03:23 PM
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save yourself time and money, hire a professional! You will be happy you did. I am a license contractor and I have seen so many things go wrong and jobs cost people twice as much by doing it themselves.
Old 08-26-06, 04:43 PM
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It is easier to decide your basement's fate if we see a floorplan.

btw.....home theatre room.

-p
Old 08-26-06, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by pedagogue

btw.....home theatre room.

-p
QFT
Old 08-31-06, 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by brizz
i'm in the midst of finishing my basement from scratch. the best advice I can offer is to think long and hard about what you want to do, draw up some sketches of the floor plans, and go to the library and get 3-4 books on wiring, plumbing, drywall etc.

as for vapor barriers, do some research on this. you don't want one on a below grade wall - thinking on this has changed drastically since all vapor barriers really do is trap moisture between it and the wall - creating mold and smells and all kinds of problems. This was the most useful thing I found on-line:

http://www.buildingscience.com/resou...stems-2002.pdf

I would at minimum frame in the solid concrete walls after gluing 1-2 inches of RIGID POLYSTYRENE insulation. it does not absorb moisture, but instead allows it to breathe through slowly. You don't want to seel off the walls. same goes for the floor. you can put any kind of flooring down there, but may want to consider a subfloor if you are doing carpet. Then just put a dehumidifier down there and you'll be fine. The above grade walls (next the sliding glass for instance) can have regular bat insulation and do require a vapor barrier.

as for the staggered cinderblock walls, those are kind of cool. they can be painted or stained, so I'd research those options. I can see those being pretty cool if you simply framed above them to the edge and drywalled above it.

great link

Question: If i decide to put a subfloor in do I do the subfloor then stud OR stud first then put the sub floor in?

Thanks
Old 08-31-06, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by habers
great link

Question: If i decide to put a subfloor in do I do the subfloor then stud OR stud first then put the sub floor in?

Thanks
Who would have thought this would turn into horse fucking?!

-p
Old 09-01-06, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by pedagogue
Who would have thought this would turn into horse fucking?!

-p

With you involved?


Me.
Old 09-01-06, 09:01 AM
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stud, then sub floor
Old 09-01-06, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by pyro383
stud, then sub floor
what he said.
Old 10-23-06, 11:45 PM
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is it ok to float a laminate wood floor directly on ridged polystyrene?
Old 01-16-07, 07:04 PM
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here are some updated pictures on the progress, all work done so far has been done by me mainly on weekends and some weeknights.

Here is the basic layout, the "red wall" isn't accurate in the diagram, I ended up framing that for a 2-8 door.
<p>
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/lighting.JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-11-00.01 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-11-00.03 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-11-00.04 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-11-00.05 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-11-00.06 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-11-00.07 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-12-00.01 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/06-12-00.03 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-13.01 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-13.02 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-13.03 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-13.05 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-13.06 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-13.08 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-13.12 (Small).JPG">
<img src="http://www.xperttechsolutions.com/JH/dvdtalk/07-01-14.09 (Small).JPG">
Old 01-16-07, 07:21 PM
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Looks about the same as 5 months ago, except that you stapled up a bit of insulation here and there....

Floorplan looks good tho.

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