aeron

Hi,

I've been looking around magazines and websites, and I can't seem to find a definitive answer to my question...

I want to get an HDTV for $1500 or less. I want it exclusively for playing DVDs, and so I want optimal DVD quality. Which type of TV, or even which brands and models, is best for this? I've tried out LCD and they are certainly not the way to go (black is terrible due to poor contrast ratio).

Which is better--Plasma or DirectView? I can't afford plasma, so I'm favoring just a DirectView HDTV...Or is there something else better? I've noticed the Sanyo model at Wal-Mart for $747, for example...There must be better models available for higher prices...

Also, is the DVD player as important as the TV for quality? Is progressive scan important? I'm considering getting a MOMITSU DVD-V880, which has the upconversion and all of that. Will that make a big difference for my quality? Should I be upgrading from my relatively cheap JVC unit?

Thanks!
- Aeron

Shannon Nutt

Well, since your DVD isn't going to be in HDTV regardless of whether you get an HDTV set or not, I don't know that there's a good answer to your question. But assuming you get both an HDTV and a good DVD player that upconverts your DVD signal, you should be happy with the picture.

I have a Mitsubishi 55513 with a Samsung HD931 and watch my discs through a DVI input (the Samsung upconverts to 1080i) and am quite happy with the results.

aeron

Will I actually notice a significant improvement/difference compared to a regular tv and cheapie dvd player? Won't just having a widescreen tv with more horizontal lines of resolution make a difference? Or are you saying that the DVD output won't take advantage of it?

Thanks.

Brian Shannon

Why would you buy a good tv and a poor dvd player?

Sending a poor signal to the tv from the dvd player wont help your cause.

W00t!

Hi aeron,

DVDs as I'm sure you know have a maximum horizontal resolution of 720 lines. Your SDTV can display that. What you gain from going from a 4:3 TV to a 16:9 TV (HDTV or EDTV) is an increase in vertical resolution when viewing anamorphic DVDs.

You'll also benefit from being able to display a progressive signal. That will help make your DVDs appear more film like when viewing.

hoyalawya

If you want the absolute best pq, get a CRT RPTV and hire an ISF calibrator.

REL77

I agree. There is a 42" Panasonic that is fairly cheap which has some great reviews and looks spectacular. You should look in the Home Theater Thread in the main forum and look at what everyone has. I personally have a 57" Toshiba CRT RPTV

Michael Sheridan

Hell, for right around $1500 ($1586), you could get the Pioneer 53" set from Wal-Mart. Its a 2 year old set, and doesnt have DVI, but for the price, its hard to beat.
Pioneer Set

aeron

But don't DirectView CRTs have better pictures than Rear Projection models? I've certainly noticed problems with viewing angles on RP units...Other than that, are they comparable?

I'd like to get an RP, because I think it's the most affordable for the size. DirectView is wonderful, but it doesn't go beyond about 36"...

Also, I read a few things about burn-in on RPs with video games. I didn't realize burn-in was a problem on anything but Plasma...Is this actually a legitimate concern, or was that article wrong?

juicerocket

Burn-in is an issue on any phosphor based technology, including LCD, Plasma, RPTV, CRT, etc. DLP is the only technology that cannot burn-in.

Burn-in is fairly over-rated, simply calibrate your set properly (drop the contrast and brightness from the factory settings "torch-mode") and you'll be good to go.

-JR

X

Actually, Rear Projection CRTs have more resolution than DirectView CRTs. And I find the picture from an RPTV to be much more "film-like".

hoyalawya

"Better" picture is relative. RPTV will generally give a more theater-like picture. If brightness and viewing angle are among your concerns then CRT RPTV is not the way to go. At your price point, you will have to choose between the size of a CRT RPTV and the viewing angle, brightness, always in focus, and ease-of-use of a direct view CRT.

Regarding burn-in, hire an ISF calibrator. Doing so would elongate the life your TV 10+ times (comparing to factory setting with its torching brightness).

Frank S

Well no one has actually asked your intial question so here goes... The best HDTV's to buy for DVD viewing would be HDTV's that DO NOT upconvert to 540p, 720p or 1080i (depending on the HDTV) but you want to find one that leaves the resolution of a progressive scan player as is at 480p. You usually have to dig deep in these type forums or contact the manufacturers as they don't tend to let you know what the HDTV's do internally with a 480p signal. I know all Pioneer HDTV (RPTV's) keep the 480p untouched but for most others you wil need to investigate.

The reason upconversion is bad is it tends to introduce artifacting and other anomalies that aren't in the video output froma progressive scan DVD player.

chipmac

You know Frank I was gonna post the same response but most people don't seem to agree with that opinion anymore. That was one of the reasons I bought my Mits. It's one of the last brands that displays a native 480p signal. when it comes to CRT based RPTVs Hitachi, Toshiba, Panasonic, Sony, Zenith, Samsung and I think even the new Pioneers all use some type of upconversion. But for some people the only thing that matters is getting the highest resolution displayed regardless if its not really the best way to display it. Everyone is chasing after these upconversion players because most of their TVs do it poorly and they're looking for a better solution. Meanwhile I'm chugging along with a great Panny RP56 player and a Mits that doesn't ruin the great output it provides.

Frank S

The one way I finally was able to view upconverted DVD's and can say without a doubt they look better is with my HTPC. I get beautiful 1080i upconverted DVD's and get none of the arificating or other problems that you et when a HDTV or upconversion DVD player has. And having a Pioneer I already have a VGA(RGB) input so I didn't need any transcoder cables and the grief they can cause with working right with Powerstrip software.