jonny#5

I have a Toshiba 55" TV (not widescreen) that I purchased a year and a half ago. It is HDTV ready. Don't flame me, BUT what do I need to get once HDTV is the norm?

Also, I am using a Panasonic A-310 DVD player hooked up to my TV through the component output (???). If I decide to get a progressive scan player, will I notice significantly improved picture quality???

Brian Shannon

You would need either a HDTV DSS system and/or a HDTV over the air antenna.

Yes you should notice a difference with a progressive scan player. How much will depend on a lot of things like ambient room light, proper calibration of the TV, quality of the DVD transfer etc.

X

I think you'll need more than just a HDTV over the air antenna. You need the STB like this one: http://www.audiorevolution.com/equip/rcadtc1000/

I'm not endorsing the RCA, but that type of box is what you'll need in addition to the antenna.

jonny#5

so did i screw up in buying this TV? keep in mind it was bought a year and a half ago....

jonny#5

FYI, the TV I have is:

Toshiba TN55X81

This can handle progressive scan dvd players, right?

bfrank

your tv is fine. The HD tuner (and an antenna or dish) is all you need.

You can use the progessive dvd player without the above.

jonny#5

Thanks BFrank! MUCH appreciated...One last Q,

Which do you recommend:

JVC xvsa75gd
JVC xvfa95gd
toshiba sd3750
toshiba 4700

or anyother good progressive scan players that I didnt mention?

Brian Shannon

My apologies. I neglected to mention that you would also need a decoder.

Frank S

Don't get suckered by anyone pushing their HD tuned Antennas as there is NO SUCH THING! All antennas are HD as well as analog tuned. Just buy a regular antenna that is suitable for how far you are from the transmitters and your all set!

As for your list of progressive DVD players do not forget about the RP91 that is considered by those in the know as the best PS player for under $1500. It can be found for less then $450 online.

Movie_Man

Most HD/digital signals in the country are UHF, though a few are VHF. Just make sure you have the appropriate antenna to receive the appliciable signal and you're set. But as mentioned above, there is no such thing as a HD specific antenna.
If you want to receive OTA signal only (no satellite), a good choice is the Samsung SIR-T150. I am very happy with mine, and other people who have compared have said it does a good job of receiving weak signals. I think even Best Buy is selling these now.

jonny#5

Is Colorstream the same as Progressive Scan? My Toshiba 55" cinema series HDTV ready TV has colorstream. I see nothing about progressive scan anywhere in the manual. I have my JVC Progressive Scan DVD player hooked up to the TV using component out but do not notice an improved picture with the new DVD player. Whats the prob?

Thanks.!

goatweed

I don't have the same TV set as you (I have a Sony 36" XBR400), but I do know that Colorstream is a fancy word for the component input/output on Toshiba DVD Players. More than likely your TOSH TV is somewhat "enhanced" to make use of a "Colorstream" signal from a Tosh DVD Player (but any component vid out would be just as good). IMO, Colorstream = Marketing bulls*&t.

Now, on the rear of your TV, you should have inputs labelled 480p/1080i or something to that effect. This is where you would connect your Prog DVD player. Once connected, depending on the model player you get, you will be able to hit a button or switch during movie playback and go from interlaced (the norm for most dvd players) and progressive. The TV should be able to decode both signals (and on MY TV, I know it does because I can set the input channel as 16:9 auto and when it gets an interlaced signal, it works, but when I set the signal to progressive, I have to go back into the menu and manually set the 16:9 function as the AUTO becomes grayed-out. In other words, I know my TV is decoding the signal lol). That's pretty much the gist of it - I can definitely see a difference on most movies between progressive and interlaced (some older titles its negligible, but a newer one like SW:E1 TPM the difference is clearly defined).

As for a player rec, I have a Tosh 3750 and I love it. I had a 2109 (that I still use in the bedroom) and the video quality these Tosh's put out is amazing for the prices they go for. Panny's are good to from what I have read, but when I did the head-to-head eye comparison, I felt the Tosh provided a "warmer" picture. The 3750 also prvoides for MP3 playback on CD-R's or CD-RW if that's something of interest, as well as VCD playback for all of those "home-burned" movies you might have and can only play on your computer.

I hope this makes some sense

Frank S

Colorstream is just what Toshiba calls their Component inputs. It' not the same as Progressive Scan which means 480p video. If your TV is HD ready you will have no problem displaying a Progressive Scan signal from a PS DVD player. A lot of HDTV's do not label their inputs 480p/1080i so don't assume if it doesn't say so it won't work. On my Pioneer it does not label any inputs but all of them can accept 480p or 1080i. Just refer to your manual and see which (if not all) of the inputs accept 480p or if they just mention 1080i then plug into those inputs.

jonny#5

Ill check when I get home...Right now I have the DVD hooked up thru the component inputs...You are saying that there should be other inputs on the TV to allow for Progressive Scan (480/1080?) i didnt notice this on the back on my tv. Is it possible that a Toshiba HD Ready TV that I bought less than 2 yrs ago doesnt accept progressive scan?

jonny#5

Just checked the Toshiba website. It seems that if I just hook up the DVD thru the colorstream, the Progressive Scan would work. This is how I have had it set up, yet I do not notice a change in picture.

Mr. Salty

Do you have the player set to output a progressive picture? A progressive player can also output an interlaced picture, so you may have to change a setting somewhere.

1080 is not a progressive format, by the way. In fact, the "i" in 1080i stands for "interlaced."

Frank S

But every HDTV that accepts a HD signal also accepts a 480p signal as well, which is what the original poster was wanting to find out.

Mr. Salty

I was clarifying jonny#5's post above:

I wanted to make sure he understood that "progressive" and "1080" are not interchangable terms.

jonny#5

Ok..i read the manual. The TV has 480/1080 on the componet/colorstream inputs. So basically I should use the red, blue, green cables from my DVD to my TV (component/colorstream inputs) and choose Progressive scan on my dvd player? I believe I did this, and I still do not notice a real change between Progressive and Interlace. In fact, Interlace may look better. Am I crazy? Any fool proof way to check that progressive is infact better? I appreciate all the help.

buttscratcher9~

I have a Tosh 42" (H81) and JVC P.S. DVD (sa-70) also. At first I had a hard time "seeing" the diff. of interlace and ps, but play a good (transfer) movie...pause it and switch between int/ps and you'll be able to notice the difference.

One other note, is to check the setting of your TV...i.e. contrast. This also has a big effect.

Otherwise, sound to me like you have everything connected right. Enjoy.

Steve

rich2741

Jonny#5-

The difference between interlaced scanning and progressive scanning is that in interlaced mode the image is sent to your display by being broken up into 2 fields which make 1 frame, and in progressive mode the image information is sent to you in a single, complete frame.

The end result to the user in watching a fluid (moving) image is that the brain visually "accepts" complete frames for processing better than it does looking at half frames (2 fields). Some people are more "sensitive" to interlaced viewing, and enjoy progressive scan displays to no end.

It is a subtle difference that lends a little more enjoyment to watching movies, etc. Progressive scan does not line-double, or increase resolution in any way, but gives a more "film-like" appearance to the image, "smoother" if you will.

As far as better resolution, the answer is "no". 480i and 480p have the same exact resolution, just displayed differently. In fact, if your display (TV/monitor) is not calibrated, you might even think that interlaced mode is better (like you relayed).


Slightly off course, but what I believe your end want is in all this, is the highest "perceived clarity" you can get, and that takes many points completed to reach.

The 2 fundimentals are:

Use Component Video connections if possible. On a scale of 0 to 100, Composite (1 path) is about 40, S-Video [which uses a mini-DIN plug] (2 paths) is about 85, and Component Video is 100 (3 paths). In other words, never use Composite or RF connections. And BTW, Component Video input and RGB input are slightly different, and not interchangable because of signal differences.

Purchase a "calibration disc" to adjust your display. Without it you will never view the best picture the display can deliver. The one I recommend is 'Video Essentials' (by Joe Kane, a industry legend and founder of ISF), and retails for $50 (you might get it cheaper).

Other aspects of increasing "perceived clarity" are: Using a progressive scan DVD player, accessing the hidden "technician service menus", controling the light in the room with a iron fist, playing Superbit DVD's, and once a year confirming that your display CRT's are clean and in proper convergence.

There's much more detail, but this is probably more than you want.

Good luck,

Rich2741

* I have 710 DVD's and 4 full-blown HTS' (2 65" WS)

jonny#5

Thanks for the GREAT explanation! I need to purchase Video Essentials, ASAP. Do you know how to access the hidden service menus on Toshiba TVs? Any more advice would be appreciated!

Mr. Salty

Be aware that accessing the service menu will likely void your warranty. The TV's memory will keep a record of this menu being accessed, so if you ever have a problem that needs to be repaired under warranty, you may be screwed.

rich2741

Jonny#5 -

You're welcome.

To enter the Service Menu on most Toshibas:

Power up your set.
Press MUTE on your remote and release.
Press MUTE on your remote and hold. While holding the MUTE button, go to your set and press the MENU button on front panel. Release both buttons.

An "S" (for "Service") should appear near the bottom right of the tv screen. Press MENU again on your TV. You are now in Service Mode.

You can scroll through the TV settings by pressing channel UP/DOWN on your remote. You can change any of the setting by using the Volume UP/DOWN on the remote.

To exit Service mode:

Turn off the power.


I'm not going to give you anymore information on this yet (like what to do when you get in), because you haven't even got the calibration disc yet (Video Essentials). First things first. Just look for now, but don't change anything.

Warning: It is I-M-P-E-R-A-T-I-V-E (I mean it!) to understand that if you start making adjustments in the service menu without knowing what you are doing you can damage your TV set (the main reason manufacturerers keep it hidden from consumers).

There are a hundred other tips, but another important element to the highest perceived clarity is that you not watch your display any closer than the "minimum viewing distance". In most modern sets that will be roughly 2 times the diagonal dimension of the screen. In your case, that makes it 9 feet - 2 inches (eyeballs to screen surface). If you watch it any closer, then you are shooting yourself in the foot on clarity.

(You are going to love what Video Essentials will teach you.)

Rich2741

jonny#5

Since I bought the YV almost 2 yrs ago and didnt get any extended warranty, isnt my warranty up anyway? Just curious.

What kinds of things can one change/fix by tinkering with the service menu?

What will getting Video Essentials change/fix? Will I notice a major change?

Can you rent Video Essentials from Blockbuster, etc?

You guys are great!