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View Full Version : what b&m stores sell parts for a dryer? (kenmore)


twikoff
09-23-10, 06:51 PM
I think my heating element may have gone out in my dryer.. Ive opened it up.. shop vac'd the lint, checked the hoses, checked the pressure outside.. seems to be blowing just fine.. just not heating..

alot of sites suggested flipping the breaker a couple times.. no luck with that one either.. so looks like Im moving on to next steps

testing and/or replacing heating element.. possible replacing thermastat

i dont have a multimeter.. so it would be nice if i could take it somewhere that they would test it for me (may run down to autozone ;) )
if by chance, the heating element isnt the issue.. i guess Ill be looking for the thermastat

(kenmore 90 series dryer)

Bacon
09-23-10, 06:54 PM
perhaps a fuse blew

X
09-23-10, 06:54 PM
Just call the parts department of an appliance store. I've replaced heater elements and timers by getting replacement parts from their parts department even though they didn't carry that particular brand.

A multimeter certainly helps identify the problem, like allowing you to check for voltage at the heater connections in order to eliminate thermostat and other potential problems. Be careful though, you're probably dealing with 220V.

jfoobar
09-23-10, 06:56 PM
As Kenmore is a Sears brand, my first though is obviously Sears. Although if your local Sears is anything like mine, it may not stock parts for shit. Sears does offer appliance repair service, however.

If you live in a typical suburbia, the best location for appliance parts may very well be Home Depot.

Nugent
09-23-10, 06:59 PM
Kennmore is simply a rebranded Whirlpool so you shouldn't have any trouble tracking down the correct part as long as you have it in hand.

They should be able to easily cross reference the parts.

gmanca
09-23-10, 06:59 PM
Yeah, it's good to have a multimeter around the house for various stuff; usually Sears won't carry the part and you'll have to order it although you might luck out and find it at a Sears Part Depot or the store might carry one someone didn't pickup.

If you can wait you can get the part cheaper on eBay which is where I got my dryer motor. If you need it like today, you should try an appliance repair shop as some sell parts as well.

rw2516
09-23-10, 07:15 PM
Sears will ship the part to you. If there is a Sears repair place close you can go pick it up. Helps if you know part number.

twikoff
09-23-10, 08:33 PM
grabbed a multimeter and just tested.. the heating element is good
so really, i guess that only leaves the thermostat... anyone know if its possible to test the thermostat?

checked high limit themostat for continuity and it seems to read fine...

twikoff
09-23-10, 08:33 PM
Sears will ship the part to you. If there is a Sears repair place close you can go pick it up. Helps if you know part number.

have the parts in hand.. but everything keeps testing out good :-/

gmanca
09-23-10, 08:56 PM
I don't have the wiring schematic for my dryer handy but there is a thermal fuse that can prevent the element from heating. You might find yours underneath the console panel, attached to the backside of the dryer.

Just to be clear, you are testing for 0 ohms when you touch the leads to the element terminal posts?

twikoff
09-23-10, 09:01 PM
ok.. so far i have tested.

1. checked outside vent.. blowing pretty strong.. vacuumed out lint
2. opened bottom and vacuumed out all lint
3. removed exhaust hose and cleaned out, vacuumed out vent leaving house and going into dryer
4. hooked multimeter up to heating element, confirmed continuity
5. hooked multimeter up to high limit thermostate, confirmed continuity
6. double checked heating element, showing 220v
7. double checked high limit thermostat, showing 210-210v
8. checked voltage on wall connection, showing 240v even

called my brother in law (who is pretty handy and use to be an electrician) he says sometimes a heating element is bad despite showing continuity

so I either put it back into the unit and test because maybe it was in my head
or I take this unit (heating element and thermostat) to a appliance repair shop tomorrow and see if they can confirm one is bad.. just not sure what they can do, that i havent.

twikoff
09-23-10, 09:03 PM
Just to be clear, you are testing for 0 ohms when you touch the leads to the element terminal posts?


yep.. setting analog multimeter on 0 ohms, then getting a reading off 220 off the heating element.. not sure if that number means anything, of if that simply confirms continuity.

twikoff
09-23-10, 09:05 PM
i found this picture
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/sears-kenmore/8146-kenmore-series-90-electric-dryer-no-heat.html

i guess if i can get to the thermal fuse.. there would be a clear break or discoloration if its blown?

again... there definitly was a burning type smell yesterday morning.. not sure what that indicates.. so far, i havent seen any burnt wiring... i dont know if the heating element 'burns out' and makes a smell as it dies?

parrotheads4
09-23-10, 09:06 PM
perhaps a fuse blew


This.

I've repaired my 20 year old dryer 4 times. Twice the heating coil was burned out. Twice a little hidden fuse was fried.

Check continuity through the entire line and you will find the $1 fuse that needs to be replaced, then buy online.

gmanca
09-23-10, 09:08 PM
If you are seeing voltage at the terminals then yeah, I'd say it's a bad element. Just seeing the forum link you posted, someone mentioned the element as registering 15-20 ohms which is 10 times less than your measurement so it does sound like the element is bad or there's a short to ground. As for the fuse, it would be best to check for 0 ohms as some are covered and you can't see the filament.

twikoff
09-23-10, 09:15 PM
If you are seeing voltage at the terminals then yeah, I'd say it's a bad element. As for the fuse, it would be best to check for 0 ohms as some are covered and you can't see the filament.

based on this video (at 3 minute mark), I was expecting to see the resistence as a good thing

i could be saying it wrong, when i give a voltage reading. those numbers may be there for testing voltage, not 0 ohm and i probably should be ignoring them?

gmanca
09-23-10, 09:21 PM
If you are talking about that youtube video on the 90 series dryer, the guy mixes it up. The idea is that a closed circuit will have zero(in the ideal circuit) resistance, allowing the electrons to flow. If it's an open circuit, the electrons can't flow and that's because of high resistance. These are general terms but the simplistic view for motors, windings, or coils is low ohm readings = functioning component.

So long as you are testing the voltage by changing the meter to AC and, if necessary, changing the probes to the proper sockets, you are doing it properly.

twikoff
09-23-10, 09:46 PM
If you are talking about that youtube video on the 90 series dryer, the guy mixes it up. The idea is that a closed circuit will have zero(in the ideal circuit) resistance, allowing the electrons to flow. If it's an open circuit, the electrons can't flow and that's because of high resistance. These are general terms but the simplistic view for motors, windings, or coils is low ohm readings = functioning component.

So long as you are testing the voltage by changing the meter to AC and, if necessary, changing the probes to the proper sockets, you are doing it properly.

just to clarify.. if i set the multimeter to test ac or dc.. i get no reading
if i set it to 0 ohm.. i get a reading..
the video says to set it to 0 ohm and that i should get a reading.. i assumed that was correct, since his demonstration was testing a brand new (good) heating element..

i looked at the rest of the unit.. dont see how i do anything with the thermal fuse... i hope i dont have to deal with that :-/

twikoff
09-23-10, 09:47 PM
This.

I've repaired my 20 year old dryer 4 times. Twice the heating coil was burned out. Twice a little hidden fuse was fried.

Check continuity through the entire line and you will find the $1 fuse that needs to be replaced, then buy online.

from the picture.. i only see 1 fuse (thermal fuse) along the line.. and i really dont see any good way to test it.. ive never dealt with a fuse like that though

X
09-23-10, 10:13 PM
from the picture.. i only see 1 fuse (thermal fuse) along the line.. and i really dont see any good way to test it.. ive never dealt with a fuse like that thoughYou use the ohmmeter on either side of the fuse and see if it is conducting current or not.

gmanca
09-23-10, 10:25 PM
just to clarify.. if i set the multimeter to test ac or dc.. i get no reading
if i set it to 0 ohm.. i get a reading..
the video says to set it to 0 ohm and that i should get a reading.. i assumed that was correct, since his demonstration was testing a brand new (good) heating element..

i looked at the rest of the unit.. dont see how i do anything with the thermal fuse... i hope i dont have to deal with that :-/

You only test with the AC portion if you have the element connected/installed in the dryer and powering on the dryer to see if the correct voltage gets to the element. This is very dangerous with regardless to the large current that's being outputted.

If you are pulling out the element and testing like the guy in the video, you are just testing for the ohms. And the guy replies in the comments that he's mixed up about the terminology. With that particular multimeter, when the needle goes all the way to the right, it's indicating zero ohms which means it's a closed circuit not that there is resistance.

As X pointed out, you test the fuse for continuity or 0 ohms; look for the metal contacts on either side of the fuse or find the terminating points of the wires it's connected to and test it that way. You should find the wiring schematic so you can get a better idea of what's going on.

Just Lurking
09-23-10, 11:14 PM
Twenty two posts in and Old Dude has not checked in yet. Always amazed how he breaks everything down.

kvrdave
09-23-10, 11:17 PM
Probably the Johnson Rod.

twikoff
09-23-10, 11:25 PM
gave up for the night
will 0 ohm the fuse in the morning before i leave for work
planning to walk into a appliance repair show with the heating element and thermostat in hand and see if they can tell me that either is bad.. (assuming the fuse doesnt jump out as the problem in the morning)

twikoff
09-23-10, 11:57 PM
ok.. so i had to go downstairs for something else and decided to check quick

i didnt disconnect any cables first.. but tested 0 ohm on the thermal fuse and also tested the cycling thermostat.. both tested fine for continuity..

i believe i have now officially tested each piece for continuity without finding a short/break

twikoff
09-24-10, 12:42 PM
blah.. tracked down a heating element at a local store.. best price i could find was 2x the price of amazon, but we need this working since we are going out of town next week..

ran home at lunch and connected it all back up... and still not heating.. coils arent going orange
rehit each point along the way with the multimeter and found no issues.

so now i guess i have to track down a thermostat and hope thats it.. getting to the thermal fuse is going to be a bitch, if i end up needing to replace that.

al_bundy
09-24-10, 12:49 PM
why not just buy a new dryer?

X
09-24-10, 12:57 PM
You really need to see what voltage (if any) you're getting at the heater terminals, and then work your way back.

Heat
09-24-10, 01:08 PM
There is a forum for appliance repair that I use on occasion, very useful stuff. www.applianceguru.com You have to join to post ($5 for two months, $45 for lifetime), but you can browse for free.

They also have FAQ's for different topics, here is the dryer repair FAQ:
http://fixitnow.com/appliance-repair-faqs/dryer-repair-faq/#ixzz10T2ZxavQ

From the FAQ and assuming your dryer is electric:

• One leg of the 240 volts AC at the dryer outlet is missing. Oh, I can hear you now, "Yo, Mr. Smarty=pants Samurai Guy, I know it has power because the motor runs. Dontcha get it?" Listen, knucklehead, the circuit breaker for an electric dryer is a two-pole, 30 amp breaker. One leg can break disabling the heating element leaving the other leg to run the motor. I only see this about every frikkin’ day, so try not running your mouth so much and learning something for a change. ‘K? ‘K.
• The heating element is open. Ohm it out, Hoss. You should get between 12 to 35 ohms.

• One of the thermostats are open. Check continuity.

• Bad timer contact in heater circuit. You gotta use the wiring diagram here. If you can’t do this, call a pro.

• Bad temperature selector switch…you know what to do.

twikoff
09-24-10, 01:10 PM
well shit
i figured my next step was the thermostat... so when i went to pull it off, i also grabbed the thing next to it.. diagram shows it as a thermal cutoff
I didnt realize thats a fuse

it comes as part of a kit with the thermastat

when i connect the multimeter to thermal cutoff.. Im not getting continuity.. so I guess I did miss one spot when i was doing all my checking..

heading back out to buy this kit.

twikoff
09-24-10, 01:11 PM
why not just buy a new dryer?

wife wants our next dryer to be a nice big fancy one..
Im not ready to shell out the dough for it right now.. might want black friday deals though

X
09-24-10, 01:15 PM
why not just buy a new dryer?I'm afraid this kind of mentality is one of the big problems with our consumer society. Just throw away anything that doesn't work and buy a new one.

That has many negative impacts on society. That's why I make every effort to fix something that stopped working if I was happy with it when it was working. It generally ends up costing much less as well.

Th0r S1mpson
09-24-10, 01:19 PM
why not just get a new dryer AND a new wife?

Edit: X probably believes in fixing marriages too. :mad:

superdeluxe
09-24-10, 01:23 PM
I think my heating element may have gone out in my dryer.. Ive opened it up.. shop vac'd the lint, checked the hoses, checked the pressure outside.. seems to be blowing just fine.. just not heating..

alot of sites suggested flipping the breaker a couple times.. no luck with that one either.. so looks like Im moving on to next steps

testing and/or replacing heating element.. possible replacing thermastat

i dont have a multimeter.. so it would be nice if i could take it somewhere that they would test it for me (may run down to autozone ;) )
if by chance, the heating element isnt the issue.. i guess Ill be looking for the thermastat

(kenmore 90 series dryer)


Sears, Kenmore is like their in store brand.

twikoff
09-24-10, 02:48 PM
fixed

so.. anyone that said 'fuse' gets a gold star
95$ later, i learn that a thermal cutoff is a fuse and I should have tested that earlier
oh well.. still cheaper than a service call and repair.. and now I have a spare heating element & thermostat (since i had to buy the fuse as a set)..
probably could ebay the new ones and get half my money back.. buy meh.. Im just glad its working again and I can put off getting a new one a little longer.

al_bundy
09-24-10, 03:51 PM
I'm afraid this kind of mentality is one of the big problems with our consumer society. Just throw away anything that doesn't work and buy a new one.

That has many negative impacts on society. That's why I make every effort to fix something that stopped working if I was happy with it when it was working. It generally ends up costing much less as well.

in the last few years every year the new appliances get more and more power efficient. a cheap energy saver whirlpool dryer is less than $400. don't know how much twikoff spent in total buying up the parts and which dryer he had before but it's possible a new one would save him money in the long run.

it's like my mother in law. she refuses to use her dishwasher because she says it's too expensive. yet she doesn't mind paying the higher water and heating oil bills that washing your dishes by hand results in. and she has a house full of halogen bulbs which are just awesome in 95 degree NYC summers

twikoff
09-24-10, 04:19 PM
in the last few years every year the new appliances get more and more power efficient. a cheap energy saver whirlpool dryer is less than $400. don't know how much twikoff spent in total buying up the parts and which dryer he had before but it's possible a new one would save him money in the long run.

it's like my mother in law. she refuses to use her dishwasher because she says it's too expensive. yet she doesn't mind paying the higher water and heating oil bills that washing your dishes by hand results in. and she has a house full of halogen bulbs which are just awesome in 95 degree NYC summers

spent 95$ because i was in a hurry
could have bought the parts online for half that
could have fixed the unit for 15-20$ total, if i had diagnosed it right in the first place, and bought the piece online..

yes.. i could buy a unit for 400.. but i cant get one my wife will be happy with for that price... Im figuring at least 1500 on the next washer/dryer combo.. and thats with the discount of buying both at once.. if i had just bought the dryer, it would have been much more expensive in the long run.

Th0r S1mpson
09-24-10, 04:46 PM
Twikky, nice work on a successful repair venture. :up:

twikoff
09-24-10, 04:48 PM
thanks
now hopefully the house doesnt burn down ;)

parrotheads4
09-24-10, 05:42 PM
Like you, I "poked and hoped" my first time. I was able to return the parts I didn't need. You might want to give it a shot.

twikoff
09-24-10, 06:09 PM
Like you, I "poked and hoped" my first time. I was able to return the parts I didn't need. You might want to give it a shot.

i verified.. they said they dont accept returns on eletronic parts... even though it was less than an hour :-/
i could get about half their value on ebay... but then i would have to pull the new parts out..
as of now, Im using all the new parts and probably will just leave it alone..
keep the old parts as spares.. even though i expect my wife will want to replace these within a few months anyways.

twikoff
09-25-10, 03:52 PM
not sure if the new heating element has anything to do with it
or if its just from cleaning out all the lint in the bottom of the dryer and all the exhaust hoses..

but the dryer hasnt worked this well in years :up: